OSP Magazine December

The December edition of OSP Magazine consists of 8 pages this time (this included) and many links to external pages, hopefully there’s something for you!

In the last two months and so after switching to magazines I have learned two things:

  • OSP Photography apparently shows up very well in search results for Recipes, Luts and everything related to it.
    Undoubtedly, my good friend Mark Adams certainly contributed to that.
    Thank you Mark ! (https://onecameraonelens.com/)
  • Adding PictureFX to FreshLuts was also a good thing.
    And that actually makes sense, what I write myself is currently a drop in the ocean – there are a huge number of photography sites.
    But the search for Recipes and Luts and everything related to it has never been greater, and it continues to grow.

In case you didn’t already know this, I recently added a new Lut on Fresh LUTs : PictureFX Kodachrome 1961 25 ASA XPRD
Writing here and links to downloads on Fresh LUTs and on Google Drive for the special formats.

There is another thing that is well visited on OSP, and that is lens tests or lens reviews.
To make them more accessible I’ve added them to the Tech menu, all lenses tested so far are listed in order of focal length, primes first then zooms.

Talking about lenses, In the November magazine I wrote about purchasing the new Tamron 18-300mm for Fuji X and writing down my findings in a review. However, it has not been delivered yet. Is this due to the Covid, or a small boat that got stuck in the Suez Canal, who will know?
Yet there are those who have been luckier than me,
Ivan Joshua Loh already has it, and writes his review about it here.
Darren Miles has also received his lens and has written down his findings about it here. And from what I’ve read of it, it’s a keeper ! – unfortunately, I’ll have to get it first.

Recipes, recipes and more recipes…
For those who thought my stream of new recipes was exhausted,
think again…

1. The spotlight Recipe for December : Luís Costa of Life Unintended, with 7 (yes, you read correctly) seven custom Fujifilm recipes.
But that’s not all, also a link to Luís favorite Fujifilm recipes and a very interesting article about analog film simulation.
Click here for the article.

2. Further, Alik Griffin with his version of the Eterna Film Simulator Recipe.
Alik from alikgriffin.com may already be known by many for his memory card comparisons and camera gear reviews, but probably not his recipes.
Click here for more.

3. And last but not least, Andrew and Dani Livelsberger from Best Light Photographic, bringing you two great B&W recipes, Kodak Panatomic and Ilford Delta 3200.
Click here to go to my article.

How To Setup your Fujifilm X-T1, X-T20, X-H1… for Video.
After my switch from Pentax to Fujifilm, I also explored the field of filmmaking.
It was something I’ve always wanted to do, but the Pentax camera wasn’t very suitable for this, but now that I have two Fujifilm X-H1 cameras, it was really the time to delve into it, and that’s exactly what I ‘ve done.
Click here to visit the article.

Next, something new for OSP : a special recipe update, a Recipe for Video by Palle Schultz.
Palle Schultz is a Copenhagen based, Fujifilm X Photographer, Filmmaker and Musician,
and in his video he teaches us how to set up our Fujifilm X-H1 for, as he says “some bad ass video, straight out of camera” . Now, technically it’s a “how to setup your camera” however, part of that setup is about tweaking to make Eterna look better – straight out of camera – and that makes it a : Recipe!
Click here for my article.

If you want to make films, you need an editor, just like with photography.
We found a great Open Source alternative for that to : Shotcut.
People sometimes worry about the difficult learning curve of image editing software, but while Shotcut is capable of producing very professional results, it is not that difficult to use.
Follow the 15min video for Shotcut for beginners, and I guarantee you can make decent clips within the hour. Click here for more.

Shotcut Video Editor

About Editing,

So you’re actually a photographer, just like me ?
Then I can assume that you don’t have any film editing software lying around ?
well, you’re lucky !
Just like the great Open Source Software RawTherapee, Darktable and Digikam for photography,
you have Shotcut for creating top quality movies.
And it is available for Windows, Mac OS and Linux, and best of all : its free !

In Shotcut you can do most of the things that the better and payd programs can, like edit on timeline, multi track, sound, effects, text, 3DLut, color grading, adjust exposure and much more.

System requirements ? well, I’m using an old Dell Studio, with a first generation core i5 – Intel(R) Core(TM) i5 CPU M 430 @ 2.27GHz, with 8GB RAM
On Linux Ubuntu 20.04.3 LTS
It’s not that it runs like clockwork, but it does the job, flawlessly.

Download Shotcut for Windows, Mac OS or Linux – click here

To get started, watch the video below by James Woo :

Other Tutorials for Shotcut – click here

Below some sample videos – the intention was just to try out settings with my camera, and see what is useful and what is possible.
Hopefully it will help someone.

The video above runs 1:19 including start and end screens.
File size is 20.1MB
The original clips (five) had a total of 267MB, of which I used a good 200MB in the editor.
Edited in Shotcut with codec H264 converted to MP4
Camera : Fujifilm X-H1 with Fuji 18-135mm set at f4 – 1280×720 – 24P – 50mbps Film simulation : Eterna : color +1 sharpness -1 noise -3
recorded out of hand.

Above video : the intention was to visit the 1906 fortress “Stafort” at Stabroek near Antwerp, unfortunately it was closed for restoration. Nevertheless, we were able to take a few pictures inside before we had to leave. And to not have done the trip in vain, we walked around the defense channel of the fort instead. Camera : Fujifilm X-H1 with Fuji 18-135mm set at f4 – 1920 x 1080 – 24P – 100mbps Film simulation : Eterna : color +1 sharpness -1 noise -3. Mix of video, sound and pictures – Shotcut H264/MP4.
Recorded out of hand.

How To Setup your Fujifilm X-T1, X-T20, X-H1… for Video

I am a photographer, not a filmmaker, let that be clear.

So why the interest in film or video?
Well, the interest had been there for a long time, but the possibilities were very limited with my earlier cameras.
Now that I’ve made the switch from Pentax to Fuji, that possibility has resurfaced.
But it’s not making full-length movies that interests me, it’s rather using it as an extra layer to tell a story in combination with stills.
It’s something you see more and more in documentaries over the last 5 to 10 years – the story is done in film, and stills are used to emphasize the beauty of something.
I don’t think of making long documentaries myself, but rather short clips of maximum 3 to 5 minutes to show the story and my photos, because in the end I still remain a photographer.


But how did I get started, and what settings do I use ?
On Google and Youtube you can find technical information enough, but why does it have to be so complicated ?
4K – 23.98P – 200mbps – F-Log,
is all that really necessary ?

Well, I was also a bit overwhelmed at the beginning when I saw all those possible settings and choices, not to mention the techniques and how complicated it is sometimes presented.
So I searched and learned from other well-known photographers on youtube, who are just like me interested in making short video stories combined with photos – and combined this with the knowledge of professional filmmakers.
The result is a shortcut to quickly and easily shoot video without too much fuss.
Let’s get started.

The Camera and Lens :

Whatever camera you use, I would recommend not starting with a manual lens, and certainly not buying a special cine lens when starting.
Making a film is very different from taking photos, a photo is a snapshot, and your brain is busy making that one shot – the shooting comes naturally, because you are trained to do that. When making a movie you’re much more concerned with what’s happening in front of the camera, and you have to think ahead about how you’re going to capture that scene and the events – focusing, controlling exposure and aperture, maybe even controlling the zoom, can all become a bit too much.

  • use a Fuji prime lens : 16mm, 25mm or 35mm
  • or use a small zoom like the 18-55, but film in fixed focal settings
  • no auto aperture – set a fix aperture (somewhere between 2.8 and 5.6)
  • set focusing to zone focus, with static subjects you can use spot focus

Setup your camera :

First of all, you are shooting with a Fuji, so the most important thing is probably Film Simulation. Unfortunately, Fuji did not much effort for making film simulations for video, especially not for the older cameras. In the following table you can choose what best simulation soothes you:

  • Provia – if nothing else available
  • Pro Neg Standard – best setting for older cameras
  • Eterna – recommended
  • F-Log – not Raw, but closest possible – only if you want to use Luts or color grading

Then, what is the best Resolution ?
Easy : the higher the better – but is it so ?
Well, resolutions of 4K and 5K are excellent – but do expect very large files, and more difficult to edit (need fast computer, or a lot of time). By the way, did you know that most movies for TV and Cinema are still made in FHD, it is also the most used format on social media such as Youtube.
So, Full HD is good enough for our purpose – and really for any purpose, even professional.
Best resolution setting : FHD – 1920x1080p

Framerate, this is a tough one for anyone wanting to get into film – there are so many choices !
I must first of all tell you that there are many factors that are responsible for this : European or American – TV systems PAL or NTSC – Hertz : 50 or 60, and many other factors.
But most of us will make their videos for social media (Youtube etc) or for friends and home use.
That’s why it’s best to use the standard that is most widely distributed and also used on Youtube, which is :
24 fps = normal (Cine style) choose this one to get started
60fps = children, sports, all moving targets, or if you move yourself – also for normal use, if you want crisp and smooth looking movies (my prefered setting)

Shutter Speed, yes, this may surprise some, you might think that the frame rate in video is the equivalent of shutter in photo, but nothing could be further from the truth.
You still have to set the shutter speed.
The rule of thumb is to set the shutter speed to twice the frame rate. So, 24p gives a shutter speed of 1/50.

Is it a big problem if I set a different shutter speed ?
Not really, I have recorded several times on auto with shutter speeds going up and down, you usually don’t notice this.
What happens if I set a faster shutter speed ?
Well, at 24P and 1/50, moving subjects are smooth but a bit blurry, which is ok for viewing.
While set at for example 24P and 1/250, the movements are more pronounced, sharper, but this can look also more chaotic – still, it depends on the action that is going on (example : with formula 1 cars it would emphasize the speed)

Bitrate, nothing to worry about with the slightly older Fujifilm cameras – but, from the Fuji X-H1 you can also set the bitrate, here too, the higher the better – however, I’ve watched several sample videos on Youtube and the difference is barely noticeable – well, there is a video where they record a spinner at a bitrate of 400 compared to a bitrate of 1, and yes you can clearly see the difference – deuhh. (https://timelyphoto.com/blog/2021/fujifilm-video-files-and-codecs-explained – spinner at 8:39)
When you compare videos in 4K and FHD with a bitrate of 200/100 and 50, the difference is (logically) much less clear – (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GSCBD3a7IlQ)
But the intention is that we make our own films – that is to say, cutting, pasting and generating a film from short clips – so, the highest may not be necessary, but the middle : 100 is a good choice.

Sensitivity or ISO, well, if the “better” videographer reads this, he’s probably going to be laughing his head off.
Real filmmakers always want to be in control, but we just want to make it as easy as possible, so again : AUTO !
I myself use a variable ISO between 200 and 3200, you probably won’t go that high, but it can’t hurt.
So the auto iso will largely control the exposure, but it may happen that your exposure meter still indicates overexposure – then you will have to adjust your aperture anyway, or you can also use a variable neutral density filter.

Recording – SD Cards

I’m not going to dwell too much on this topic, there are many recommendations on Youtube and the Internet.
It will not be a problem for the somewhat older cameras,
but if you are going to film in the best possible resolution, high speeds and bitrate, you need an SD card that’s able to write fast.
Personally I now use Samsung SDXC 64 Pro Plus – the X-H1 holds two cards.
These are V90 cards (write 90mb/s) so writing is not a problem, nor is the cost because I paid mine a little less than €17 a piece.
I think 64GB is a nice size, and I think it’s more interesting to use a new card in between than a large 128GB card, which is often too large.

File Size:

When recording Full HD and copying the files to your computer after filming, you will see that you have very large MOV files. you can easily have 500mb for a fragment of 1 minute.
You probably think, how do I play or upload gigabytes of film on my computer ?
Don’t worry, it still has to go through the editor to make a video from clips and pictures, and then you will notice that, after converting to Mp4 (best format according to Youtube), there is not much left of the giga files.
But, you do need a video editor!
And just like Darktable, Rawtherapee and others, there is also an Open Source Video Editor alternative, namely : Openshot.

However, more about Openshot later, now it’s time to start filming !

Two New Recipe Updates – Andrew and Dani Livelsberger – Best Light Photographic

Fujifilm Film Simulation Recipe #1 – Kodak Panatomic – please visit Andrew and Dani’s website for more information about the recipe !

Film Simulation:Acros + Y (my preference)
Acros + R
Dynamic Range:DR100
Highlight:+3
Shadows:+3
Noise Reduction:-1
Sharpness:+2
Grain Effect:Off
ISO:Auto (200-1600)
Exposure Compensation:-1/3 to -1 (outside/sunny)
0 (inside or cloudy)
Color:n/a
White Balance:Auto

Fujifilm Film Simulation Recipe #2 – Ilford Delta 3200 – please visit Andrew and Dani’s website for more information about the recipe !

Film Simulation:Acros + G
Dynamic Range:DR400
Highlight:-2
Shadows:+4
Noise Reduction:-4
Sharpness:-2
Grain Effect:Strong
ISO:12800 +
Exposure Compensation:-1/3 to -2/3
Color:n/a
White Balance:Auto

Open Source Photography is a member of :

In Partnership With Mark G. Adams

Check out his latest article Here

Special Recipe Update : a Recipe for Video by Palle Schultz

Palle Schultz – Copenhagen based, Fujifilm X Photographer – Filmmaker – Musician

  • 4K – 17:9 – 24P – 200Mbps
  • Dynamic Range 100
  • Eterna
  • White Balance – manual 5600 K (daylight basic setting) up for warmer, down for cooler
  • Highlight Tone = 0
  • Shadow Tone = +1 or +2
  • Color = +1 or +2
  • Sharpness = -1 for moving subjects
  • Noise Reduction = -1 -2 -3 (to taste)
  • Exposure = -0.3 -0.5 (just a tad below)
  • Mic. Level = auto (if internal)
  • Mic. Level = manual -12 -16 (if external)
  • Mic. Level Limiter = on

Palle hasn’t given the shutter speed setting, probably because for him this is something you should know – however, not everyone is a videographer, so :
by default it is assumed that you set the shutter speed to double the frame rate speed -> in this case it is 24P, so the shutter speed should be 1/50 -> You don’t have that shutter speed on your dial – so, set your shutter speed to 1/60 and turn the front command wheel and set it to 1/50.

That being said, even if you set a higher shutter speed there is no problem, only movement in your film will not be as smooth (read blurry) everything will be a bit harder, sharper.

To see the full movie of Palle Schultz, click below :

Update – Recipe(s) in the Spotlight – Luís Costa – Life Unintended

Luís Costa of Life Unintended is already in “The Largest Collection of Recipes brought together” , but from the moment I first added it then to now, a lot has changed.
Good wine gets better when it is kept for a long time.
Good Fujifilm recipes also have to mature in the minds of good photographers, at least they get better with experience.
And that’s exactly the case here, seven well thought out Fujifilm Recipes, and that’s not all …

Life Unintended – Luís Costa

The 7 custom Fujifilm recipes on my camera right now

But also take a look here : My favorite Fujifilm film simulation recipes , and if you are also interested in simulating analog film : The “film look” in digital: what I’ve learned so far

On Luís’s website you will also find a lot of photos made with those recipes – definitely worth a visit !

Open Source Photography is a member of :

In Partnership With Mark G. Adams

Check out his latest article Here

New Recipe Update – Alik Griffin – Eterna Film Simulator Recipe

Alik Griffin

A professional freelance trailer editor

Memory card tests, Lens reviews, Camera accessories and more

Eterna Recipe – click here

Website – click here

Video tutorials – click here

  • Film Simulator: Eterna
  • WB: AUTO | R +5 B: -6
  • Exposure Comp: + 2/3
  • Tone Curve: H-1, S+3
  • Color: +4
  • Sharpness: +2
  • Clarity: 0
  • Noise Reduction: -4
  • DR: 100
  • DR Priority: Off
  • Grain Effect: Small Weak or Large Weak 
  • Color Chrome Effect: Strong
  • Color Chrome FX Blue: Weak

Open Source Photography is a member of :

In Partnership With Mark G. Adams

Check out his latest article Here

PictureFX at Fresh LUTs

A new PictureFX addition to the Fresh LUTs website, and an opportunity to highlight it once again 🙂
Yes, many of my Luts have been converted to .cube 3DLut 25x25x25 and can be downloaded for free on Fresh LUTs.
Compatible with most image editing software.
For special formats such as 3DLut 64x64x64, PNG Lut 125×125 and 512×512 you can visit my Google Drive – in most cases the link is provided with the selected film simulation – if that is not the case, send me a message and I’ll fix it as soon as possible .

If you want to find all PictureFX Luts on Fresh LUTs, click on Browse LUTs -> click in the Name box -> then type exactly PictureFX with the upper and lower case letters, then you will get the pages with all PictureFX Luts.
You can find a direct link here.

PictureFX-Kodachrome-1961-25-ASA-XPRD

OSP Magazine – November

Content:

  • Tamron 18-300mm VC for Fuji X – it’s out and I bought it !
  • NEW ! PictureFX CineStill 800 T Lut and 3DLut
  • More about Luts and this Magazine
  • Past Bushcraft Weekend October

Tamron 18-300mm F/3.5-6.3 Di III-A VC VXD (Model B061)

Finally it’s here and I bought it, the new Tamron 18-300mm for Fuji X. However, I have to wait a little longer, because when they came in the store they were sold out immediately, so I pre-ordered one with a scheduled delivery at the end of October.
But why did I buy the Tamron 18-300mm?

I already have a whole series of Fujifilm, vintage and other brand lenses that span the entire range from 7.5mm to 500mm.
Well, what I missed most is a really “all in one” lens, as it used to be very popular in the good old days.
Back then, to give just one example, you had the very popular telephotos from 18 to 200 mm, every brand had one, whether it was Sigma, Tamron, Nikon, Canon…, they still do, but not for Fuji – that is until now.
With the standard Fujifilm kit and pro lenses you always need a set of two: XC16-50 and XC50-230 or XF18-135 and XF70-300, and yes there are a few other possible combinations, but still two lenses.
And this is where the new Tamron 18-300 lens brings the solution.

In the next writing I will certainly give a first review.
But for now here are some strong points:

  • filter diameter same as Fuji XF 18-135 and XF 70-300 : 67mm
  • same lens diameter : 75mm
  • shorter length : 125,6 (Fuji 70-300 = 132.5)
  • min. focus distance 0.15m (Fuji 70-300 = 0.83m)
  • only 40 grs more weight – 620 grs (Fuji 70-300 = 520 grs)
  • weather resistant
  • optical stabilization
  • whopping focal length : 18-300 (27-450mm in 35mm equivalent)
  • price range same as fuji 70-300mm ( +- €750)

Last minute add : It will probably take a little longer, because until today October 29, I still haven’t heard anything about delivery.

New ! PictureFX CineStill 800 T Lut and 3DLut

It took a while, but here it is finally, a new PictureFX Analog Film Simulation : PictureFX CineStill 800 T, go directly to the article and download there.

More about Luts and this Magazine

And yes, there is more film simulation …
An update for the “Largest Collection of Haldclut/Luts“,
at the same time an update for the “Largest Collection of Presets/Profiles“,
and from the same author, analog film grain plates download -> the website is TDCat.com, the author Torsten Dettlaff. all links can be found on this seperate page.


On top of that more PictureFX film simulations – I have started a brand new series : PictureFX Pro 5, click here to go to this NEW page.

Also more PictureFX on FreshLuts.com ! click here to find 30 Free PictureFX 3DLut files – more added soon.

And it’s not over yet ! here is the Spotlight Recipe for November : the MGA Realistic Pro !

One of my favorite recipes created by my friend Mark G Adams from OneCameraOneLens.com

Go straight to Mark’s article here.

Or visit “The Largest Collection of Recipes brought together

MGA Realistic Pro

I would like to add something personal here though, everyone knows there is a lot to like about the original Fujifilm Recipes, of which Classic Chrome and Eterna are probably the most loved and discussed.
I almost always shoot Raw + Jpeg myself, and in the past I usually used Classic Chrome as a film simulation, well, that has changed.
A much more subtle and balanced film simulation is Pro Neg Hi, and let that be the Fuji recipe where this new MGA Realistic Pro is based on.
I think Mark thought the same thing, because Realistic and Pro is exactly what I think of this recipe Mark created.
I design Luts myself, and if I want a somewhat different look in my pictures I use a Lut,
if I want SOOC jpegs that are “Real” and look “Pro”,
then i would use MGA Realistic Pro, What Else !

About this Magazine

Why not only a magazine like last time ? why the extra pages ? well, I noticed that there was less search for new Luts, Recipes or Presets, while blog posts about new film simulation updates in the past always attracted more people – so I now added those as a separate page, this way they appear in Google search or any other search engine, and can be found by people who are only interested in film simulations and not my OSP magazine.

Past Bushcraft Weekend October

Camera Gear :

  • Xiaomi Redmi Note 10 Pro
  • Olympus TG-6

Shelter :

  • Obelink River Tent – technical cotton tent for 3 persons
  • DD Hammocks Tarp XL multicam 3×4.5m

The “Great Bushcraft Weekend at Meerdaalwoud” of the organizer Natuurpunt.be, which always takes place in October, aims to bring people closer to nature.
Over the years, more and more people come to visit this three-day event, many of whom have never spent the night in a forest.
The intention is that the organizer provides instructors in the form of seasoned Bushcrafters, but also people who can transfer certain skills such as making a torch or climbing a tree.
In recent years, this event has attracted between 600 and 1000 visitors.
Belgium is a late bloomer in this – and a slow one too – in the UK this is a much bigger event as well as in many other countries, but in a more professional way and with famous names like Ray Mears, Paul Kirtley, Ed Stafford and many others. On the other hand we bring the general public to Bushcraft, and especially children so that they learn to live with and in nature and to respect it. Normally i’am an instructor to, but this time I went for just exploring the event, and it was the first time after the covid lockdowns.

The bushcraft weekend actually starts two days before the event, but this is reserved for people who want to specialize in certain skills.

Day 1 – The first day is meant for everyone to come to the site and set up accommodation. In the evening around 8:00 pm the first sessions started – sessions are given by an instructor and are a kind of training, that can be about anything, as long as it involves living in and has to do with nature. Unfortunately it started to rain that evening, luckily not too bad, but it rained all night until morning.

Day 2 – In the early morning my granddaughter arrived to stay until Sunday. All day long sessions where given like fire making, packrafting, archery, tracking and a lot more. One of the things we tried is eating insects. Worms and crickets fried together in an omelette, or a grasshopper satay. It’s an experience and something you have to get used to. My granddaughter tried a course with foot baths, herbs and massages while I had a bushcraft beer. We also planned to do a bit of tree climbing, but that course turned out to be full. We did make torches with candle wax and cloths wrapped around dead branches. At the end of the afternoon marshmallows over a camp fire. All in all a busy and fun Saturday.

Late afternoon it started raining, and it didn’t stop – worse, it started to be very windy, code yellow was predicted for this zone.

We retreated to my safe zone – my tent that I had pitched out of the fall zone of thick branches – when staying in a forest in a tent set up – always look up for dead/withered branches (they are called widowmakers) – if possible stay out of the fall zone of the circle of a tree.

Day 3 – The storm continued all night, the tent was hit numerous times by chestnuts in their husks because we were close to a chestnut tree. Fortunately no damage was done. Early in the morning everything was soaking wet and muddy but it didn’t stop raining, it was also the last day of camp, and I had to break camp around noon.

It was a completely different Bushcraft experience, the first time after many covid lockdowns in almost two years – and I have to admit, it also didn’t feel comfortable with so many people – the weather didn’t help either, but I don’t regret it and look forward to the next one, hopefully under better conditions.

Camera experience : The Olympus TG-6 is a great little camera to take with you, small and light, you just put it in your pocket, it fits everyware. And even if it gets completely under water or covered in mud – no problem – wash it under a bottle of clean water or a stream and it’s ready to shoot again.

It has great macro capabilities, and even takes pictures so close (shortest distance 1cm) that you would expect professional equipment.
While the macro photos are great, the regular shots are a bit less in my opinion, the jpegs are a bit smeared – whether this is due to noise from the iso or the development engine, I don’t know. Fortunately, the camera can also take RAW photos, so my camera is set to both, and afterwards I can still re-develop less good photos from RAW. The camera has a zoom lens that not extends and goes from 25 to 100mm – 35mm equivalent, which is not bad.
A few more specs:
12MP
3″ TFT
Zoom 4x (25-100mm 35mm equiv.) – f2.0/4.9
ISO 100-12800
Burst 20Bps
Raw-Jpeg
253gr – 113x66x32.4 mm
It is not a Pentax K3, nor is it a Fuji X-T2 or X-T3, but that is not the intention of this camera.
The TG-6 is a camera intended for people who want to take pictures under extreme conditions, without having to carry around a heavy and large weatherproof camera.

In Partnership With Mark G. Adams

Check out his latest article Here

Open Source Photography is a member of :

NEW ! PictureFX CineStill 800 T V1.0

PictureFX CineStill 800 T V1.0

built-in correction filter Kenko 85B for daylight use – a night version from this simulation is in development

Also check out my new PictureFX Pro 5 page for the latest film simulation developments, maybe there’s something new on it that hasn’t been posted yet…


In Partnership With Mark G. Adams

Check out his latest article Here

Open Source Photography is a member of :

Update Spotlight Recipe – MGA Realistic Pro

Spotlight Recipe Update for “The Largest Collection of Recipes brought together” – November

One of the best recipes I have ever seen : MGA Realistic Pro

And of course there are many more recipes on Mark’s site, click here to visit them.

There are a lot of photo examples of the MGA Realistic Pro recipe on the OneCameraOneLens website, but if you want to see more examples, check out the video below of Scott Dawson who used the recipe for his photos taken on the West Coast of British Columbia, Canada.


In Partnership With Mark G. Adams

Check out his latest article Here

Open Source Photography is a member of :

New Update to “The Largest Collection of” : Free Luts, Lightroom Presets and Film Grain Plates – TDCat.com by Torsten Dettlaff

Three for the price of … nothing ! yes, free Luts, free Lightroom Presets and on top of that : free Film Grain Plates !

Go shopping and spend nothing :

TDCat Free Luts Pack

Five different Lut Packs – download here

TDCat Lightroom Presets

Five Preset Packs – download here

TDCat Free Film Grain Plates !

Want grain in your film simulations ? then you need film grain plates – 12 plates available – download here

OSP Magazine October

Content

  • Changes
  • Film Simulation Updates
  • More Film Simulations : PictureFX and FreshLuts
  • ExifShot – Exif information on your pictures
  • Darktable Tutorial : Copying the Look and Feel from a Picture and Create a LUT or 3DLut – Part II
  • My Camera Gear – Perfectioning and Upgrading
  • Event : Bushcraft Weekend from 1 to 3 October

Changes

At the beginning of September I had written something about coming changes, and this is what has been decided.

There will be no more weekly or in between publications,
instead, I’ll make one monthly post with one or more topics, like a magazine but in post form.

This “Magazine” will be published at the beginning of each month. Today is the very first and a rather large one – also a little earlier, but that’s because I’am going on a three-day Bushcraft event from 1 to 3 october, and it takes a lot of preparation.
I hope you can enjoy it.

Film Simulation Updates

There is a new update for “The Largest Collection For : Nikon, Sony, Pentax, Canon, Olympus…” – click on the link below :

Fujifilm Classic Chrome on Sony A7III or other Sony Cameras

I think the title speaks for itself.

More Film Simulations

Yes, and even more Film Simulation. In an earlier post I talked about the FreshLUTs website – meanwhile I’ve uploaded thirteen of my own PictureFX LUTs there as well.
The three most popular are:
PictureFX Superia 200 V3
PictureFX Perfect Sunset V1
PictureFX Faux Infrared VIII

If you want to look up more PictureFX LUTs : click on the FreshLUTs website on “Browse LUTs” – then in the “Name” box – type PictureFX there.

ExifShot – Exif Information on your Pictures

By Exif Information on your Pictures we do not mean the “built-in” metadata that you can view from your photos in a Photo Viewer or Image Editor.
This is about creating a photo with “Visual Focused” Exif information such as shutter speed, aperture, ISO etc.
For this there is a “website” or as they call it an “App” namely ExifShot, a website where you can upload a photo and indicate which metadata you want with your photo – Very useful for photo bloggers, or photographers who want to share their meta data in comparisons, reviews or for any other reason.

Darktable Tutorial : Copying the Look and Feel from a Picture and Create a LUT or 3DLut – Part II

Finally, here’s part 2 of the article “Darktable Tutorial : Copying the Look and Feel from One Picture to Another – Part I
Actually, this last step is very simple, because instead of applying the Look and Feel to another picture, you just copy it to a basic PNG HALD or HaldCLUT identity as they call it in RawTherapee.
Any custom PNG can be used for that basic HALD, so you can use Rawtherapee’s or others, such as the one from the IWLTBAP LUT generator.

Instead of “open the target picture” we proceed as follows:

  • open any PNG HALD
  • go to “color mapping” -> if the source clusters from before are missing -> click the “reset parameters” button, and they will appear
  • hit the “acquire as target” button – the source colors will merge with the HALD
  • next step is to change the color mapping settings as you would do with the original target picture explained in Part I
  • save as PNG

After the last step, we have a HaldCLUT that is usable in RawTherapee and Darktable.
If you also want to use the LUT in other applications like Adobe, Luminar or other, you can convert it to 3DLut in, for example in IWLTBAP

And that’s all.
With a few simple steps, mostly done in Darktable in this case, you can create LUTS that can compete with paid professional film simulation Luts.

My Camera Gear – Perfectioning and Upgrading

In the last months I have thinned out my Fuji camera equipment, many cameras have been sold including the X-A, X-E series and the X-T10.
A second X-H1 has been added, bringing the current equipment to the following cameras:
X100 original, X-T1 and two X-H1. As pocket camera I bought an Olympus TG-6. For the time being I also kept the X-T20, not sure what to do with it.

I’ve also started to focus more on filming, and in order to do this better with the X-H1, I’m currently building a simple camera cage with an Ulanzi M Rig and adding extra parts – also upgrading the audio equipment, I bought two new Boya microphones, the BY-BM3031 and BY-PVM1000L, and a Tascam DR-05X sound recorder. More and review about this in a later magazine.

Event – Bushcraft Weekend October 1 to 3

Not a trip but a weekend event with two nights in a tent, in one of the largest forests in Belgium.

It’s been two years since my last bushcraft, also something where covid has messed everything up. But now it’s finally there.
A bushcraft is no ordinary camping trip, less luxurious, although some dare to call it glamping, but it really isn’t.
Bushcraft is a bit of survival, adventure, and long forgotten crafts.
An overview and photos will follow in the November magazine.

Open Source Photography is a member of :

In Partnership With Mark G. Adams

Check out his latest article Here

The Original Fuji X100

It was 2010 when I saw the promotional video of the Fujifilm Finepix X100… it was love at first sight !

I had to have this camera, and as soon as I got the chance I signed up to get one of the very first.
The camera cost about €1400 at the time, not cheap for a camera with a fixed lens.
But the X100 breathed nostalgia, and reminded me of the rangefinders from the 35mm film era like the Olympus Trip, Yashica Electro, Canon Canonet and many others.
When I finally got the camera in 2011, and had photographed with it a few times, the prevailing feeling was disappointment.
The camera was not what I expected, it had a confusing menu and was painfully slow.
My main camera then was the Pentax K-20, and the X100 couldn’t compete with that, the Pentax was faster, had interchangeable lenses, etc etc. I was blind for the fact that they where completely different cameras and not comparable, and I forgot the reason why I really bought the X100 in the First place. As a result I couldn’t find any pleasure in shooting with it.

For years the camera was only used sporadically.
This actually changed when I bought a used X-E 1 at one point, purely to use with vintage manual lenses.
I rediscovered the sense of photography, slowing down and taking time for the shot, setting aperture, shutter and focusing, all the manual way, and really having fun again.
The X100 came out of the closet to experiment with it, and for a short time it was used as a “Noir” camera – I also rediscovered the aperture and shutter dial, and then came the click.
Finally I saw the real reason again why I bought the X100, it was the feel of an old 35mm film rangefinder, only it had a sensor and no film.

Now it is no longer in the closet.
It’s not my main camera, but it now occupies a very special place in my photography life.
I’l try to explain :
When I go to an air show, or photograph birds, do macro photography, I will take the right equipment with me, such as long telephoto lenses, or macro rings etc. – bags full of gear.
You will recognize such a person immediately from a mile, a photographer !
Or he just thinks he is 🙂
35mm rangefinders were used by the common man, on vacation, during party’s or weddings, on the beach, in the restaurant, in the zoo…everywhere !
Just having fun and taking pictures, and actually you didn’t notice someone like that, he blended into the event.
Get it ?
And that’s where the camera shines.
It’s the perfect street camera, at party’s and weddings … anywhere you want to capture people in a natural way and shoot unobtrusively. It is also the camera to just throw in your bag and go on the road, without a specific goal in mind, without thinking whether you have the right lens with you.
Just to take a snap when the opportunity arises and just having fun.

And that’s exactly what I have with it now : fun !
So can I recommend it now ?
yes, completely, I think it’s a must have !
maybe also the newer X100 models ?
not shure …
although the simplicity and the original 12 megapixel sensor really contributes to this special feeling, I don’t think any other camera has this.

12 megapixels you say ?
Yes, 12 mp is more than enough,
just don’t count on cropping … much,
and use your feet to “zoom in”.

The X100, the camera where it all started with.

My old X100 with red shutter release button, black thumb-rest, lens hood, totally worn out ever-ready case and paracord wrist strap – at the back of the camera I have a flip-X-bac, it protects the back LCD and ads an angle viewfinder – very handy !

Links:

Darktable Tutorial : Copying the Look and Feel from One Picture to Another – Part I

The first part is about the technique of copying the Look and Feel from one picture to another in Darktable – In the second part, whe are going to create a Lut (PNG and 3DCube) from that Look and Feel.

How often do you see great pictures on the internet and wish your own pictures would look just like that ?

Well, of course it starts with the location, it will be difficult to give your pictures taken in the garden the same look as those of, for example, bamboo forest of Trey Radcliff in Kyoto.

That’s primarily due to the “exotic” feel of that place, because to someone in Kyoto, something photographed in your garden can look equally amazing, right?
Well yes and no, an exotic place or just a place that you don’t recognize is one step ahead, for the rest it’s just in your head.

The Mist From The Tree Tops Fell On Me From Above And Behind

The Picture Above – Bamboo Forest – All rights and credits to Trey Ratcliff – https://stuckincustoms.smugmug.com/

But of course location is not the only thing that can make a picture look – let’s say “different”.
Photographers like Trey also use HDR, Photoshop and Color Grading.
But not everyone has those skills, or they still need to be improved.
Also finding a Lut that suits your taste is not always easy, because what will your picture look like after applying a certain Lut – and which Lut would do the trick ?
It would be much easier if you see a picture on the internet that you like, and of which you could apply the color pattern to your picture.
That’s what this tutorial is about.

First this:
It’s not because you’re copying the “Look & Feel” of a picture
that your picture will look exactly the same.
That’s only possible if your photo looks almost exactly the same to begin with.
There are many factors that influence the final result, from elements in a picture, the colors, to light etc.
In the example below you will see a boat in the “donor” picture, dark clouds and certain color patterns that are not in my “target” picture, so it will never be exactly the same, but only “Looks Like”.

Ok, lets start with a “donor” picture : it is by Nuno Obey from West Java Indonesia (instagram nunoobey) White Rowboat @ https://www.pexels.com/ – Thank you Nuno !
Yes, you saw this name before in my NEW PictureFX Lut Update – PictureFX Perfect Sunset
This tutorial is also about how that PFX Lut has been made – we’ll get to that in part two.

Above, the donor picture, a sunset and a boat, but for me it’s mainly about the beautiful color pattern.

My picture of a sunset – the target picture – but no boat and no colored clouds

First step : open the “donor” picture in Darktable – make sure no adjustments are active

  • open the “effects group” -> module icons just below the histogram -> the last one on the right -> normally it contains only “color mapping”
  • in “color mapping” set the “numbers of clusters” slider to 5 -> the more clusters, the more dominant color is included, if you choose 1, then only the most dominant color is included.
  • leave color dominance at max. (100) -> to be used in the target picture
  • leave histogram settings at 50% -> to be used in the target picture
  • hit the “acquire as source” button -> the source clusters will fill up with the five most dominant colors
  • before going to the next step – take a good look at the active histogram, you would like that your target picture later has a similar look
  • open the target picture
  • go to “color mapping” -> if the source clusters from before are missing -> click the “reset parameters” button, and they will appear
  • hit the “acquire as target” button – the source colors will merge with the target colors
  • next step is change the “blend mode” – here you need to experiment a bit, a few tips :
    • choose a different blend mode – step by step -> adjust opacity if needed
    • look very close how the histogram reacts -> your aim is a histogram similar as the donor picture

Almost done – just some fine tuning

  • change color dominance slider to taste
  • change histogram equalization to get a similar histogram as donor picture – and to taste
  • if needed adjust exposure

The result, wel, as said before it is never the same, but the result is pleasing and “Looks Like” the donor picture.

Not quite clear yet ?

Below a video about the steps taken, the video is subtitled – click the subtitles icon below.

Below an explanation from the Darktable help file about elements within the color mapping module :

module controls
acquire as source/target
Press these buttons to generate color clusters for the source and target image, respectively. The processing takes a few seconds during which the GUI remains unresponsive.
number of clusters
The number of color clusters to use. If you change this parameter all collected color clusters are reset and need to be acquired anew.
color dominance
This parameter controls the mapping between source and target clusters. At the minimum value mapping is based on color proximity. This typically leads to very subtle effects on the target image. At the maximum value mapping is based on the relative weight of the color clusters – dominant colors of the source image are mapped to dominant colors of the target image. This typically leads to a very strong effect. Intermediate values incrementally shift between these extremes.
histogram equalization
Modify the target image’s contrast by matching its histogram with the histogram of the source image. This slider controls the extent of this effect.


In Partnership With Mark G. Adams

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A Follow Up on the Tokina SZX f8 400mm and other Big Guns

The last articles have always been about Luts or Recipes, so now it’s high time to talk about gear, more specifically lenses, and even more specifically : the Big Guns !
Long focal length lenses, I usually speak of them as if they were weapons, and that’s because long focal length lenses are usually large and heavy, and can “shoot” things from a long distance.
Some lenses have also been labeled bazookas by others in the past, but the same can’t be said of the tiny Tokina SZX 400.

It wasn’t the first time I experimented with long focal lengths.
In 2015, and still on my old website, I had done a review of my Sigma 150-500mm for Pentax, and the Russian Tair S3 300mm f 4.5 – sometimes referred to as the KGB lens.
The problem I had was basically the same back then -> getting (enough) good shots of birds or other moving subjects at great distance with autofocus. It wasn’t easy, when it really shouldn’t be a problem. With the old Tair S3 300mm, just by manual focus, I had more perfect shots then with the Sigma on auto.
In the beginning I thought the problem was the Sigma, then maybe it was the camera that wasn’t fast enough to focus. Eventually, I saw a few problems that made focusing difficult.

Shooting with many disturbing objects close to the main subject – like photographing a bird through a canopy of leaves, even a few leaves close by could cause problems. Birds or other subjects beyond your focal length range. Actually, everything that is disturbing in the nearby area and everything that is too far for the lens,
and the autofocus gets into trouble.
The solution was: manual focus.

The shots above here where made with the USSR Tair S 300mm f4.5, and are crop screenshots of the originals, saved in low resolution. I can assure you that the originals are much better, they are just here to show that you can still take good pictures with a very old manual telephoto lens. Focusing was done with the large aluminum knob on the bottom of the lens – and it worked surprisingly fast and well, kind of autofocus by brains and muscles. The TAIR 300mm used here costs about €100 to €150 max.

Six years later we are still dealing with the same problem. And I am not the only one, a while ago Omar Gonzalez was testing the Fuji XF 100-400mm and he experienced the same problem.
You would think today’s lenses would be better, but the problems have actually remained the same, interfering objects, light, moving subjects, just to name a few.

It’s not that those lenses are bad, far from it, because the Fuji is great and super sharp. The question is whether you are willing to spend €1500/2000 on a lens that is – heavy and may require manual focus.
I would like to add that if you learn to use the lens better and adjust your camera accordingly, you will also take better pictures in the long run – so you can speak of a learning curve.
For a certain group of photographers – real nature photographers who do almost nothing else than shooting birds or wildlife, it’s a very good choice, but for photographers who do this type of photography sporadically, I would personally go for something lighter, cheaper and manual.

And not only the price is a reason, portability is perhaps the most important reason. A large and heavy lens like the Fuji 100-400mm isn’t a lens you’re going to carry around on all your outings just in case it comes in handy. Something small like a Tokina SZX 400mm that fits in your pocket would be much better – smaller, lighter and cheaper.
But I want to warn you, if you think you will be able to shoot SOOC, forget that. However, if you can adjust your camera’s contrast and color settings, or make a recipe to use with this lens, then you could shoot SOOC, otherwise there is still some work to do afterwards on computer, so RAW, possibly next to Jpg is recommended.
Also recommended and if possible, a filter – on one hand for protection – but also to improve the contrast (a skylight filter for example).
A monopod, especially if you don’t have in-camera stabilization.

Fujifilm X-H1 – Tokina SZX 400mm – Developed in Rawtherapee, exposure corrections – sharpening – denoising – crop 16:9, full width – shot @ 1/2048 f8.0 iso 800
Fujifilm X-H1 – Tokina SZX 400mm – Developed in Rawtherapee, exposure corrections – sharpening – denoising – crop 16:9, about 40% of total image – shot @ 1/128 f8.0 2500 iso
Fujifilm X-H1 – Tokina SZX 400mm – Developed in Rawtherapee, PictureFX Velvia – crop 16:9, almost full width (90%) – shot at 1/1520 f8.0 iso 800

Conclusion:
For me the choice is clear, I used to be happy with the results of the old TAIR, but now that I have found a super small and light alternative in the Tokina SZX 400mm, I am very satisfied.


So satisfied that I went one step further – I recently found out that Samyang – besides the existing 300mm – also had a new 500mm f8 mirror lens on the market, I don’t need to say more I guess 🙂
The review of this lens will come as soon as I have the chance to take some long distance pictures somewhere.
Of course I will also compare it with the Tokina.

Then, what I have written here below completely contradicts my writing above, and probably some will call me crazy.
As some already know, I am someone who likes to go to air shows, shooting is usually done statically in one and the same place. Especially for such an occasion I recently made a very modest investment in glass, more specifically old glass.
It is a 40/50 year old, five (5) kilogram, Meyer-Optik Görlitz Orestegor/Pentacon f/5.6 500mm – she is about 450mm long, filter diameter 120mm ! – completely mold and dust free and in perfect working condition, in fact she looks brand new ! – €160 – she reminds me of an old war movie : the Guns of Navarone 🙂
It will be used from a tripod.
I’am very curious whether the lens can deliver better results than the modern mirror lenses.
But that is also for later.


In Partnership With Mark G. Adams

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New Official Fujifilm Eterna LUT Update – V1.20

Fujifilm just updated its Lut for F-Log Eterna.
Below you will find the link to the official download page.

LUT for F-Log – Fujifilm

In Partnership With Mark G. Adams

Check out his latest article Here

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NEW PictureFX Lut Update – PictureFX Perfect Sunset

Surprise !
Not one but two new PictureFX Updates in One Day!
Yes, you may have noticed while visiting the Fresh Lut’s website that there were also PictureFX Luts.
Well, for the past few weeks I’ve been busy converting existing PictureFX PNG film simulations to a different format HaldClut, which made it possible to create much smaller Lut files – and then much smaller cube files obtained from them.
I have already converted and uploaded the most downloaded film simulations on my own website to the Fresh Lut’s website.
Of course I’m at the very back of the list, but the easiest way to find them is by typing in the search function “Browse Luts” and then on “Name” – PictureFX – the search box is case sensitive, so only in lowercase or other do not give the correct result.

Ok then, our second update for today : the new PictureFX Perfect Sunset LUT was created by combining an existing HaldClut (PNG) – namely my PFX Provia – and Color Mapping of very specific color oriented photos – in this case a photo by Nuno Obey from West Java Indonesia (instagram nunoobey) White Rowboat @ https://www.pexels.com/ – Thank you Nuno !

The technique : I used RawTherapee and Darktable.
Rawtherapee for creating the special HaldClut based on my PFX Provia presets & Darktable for adding the typical Sunset Glow via Color Mapping.
Converted via IWLTBAP to 3DLut .Cube

Format : 3DLut 64x64x64 .Cube – usable in most image editing programs.

Very important :
To obtain the best result it is sometimes necessary to adjust the strength, but also the “Blend Mode”.
Depending on the photo and/or the subject, this can cause very large differences.
Below a few examples, this time one at 70% with the same Blend Mode as one at 100%, and one with a different Blend Mode

Blend Mode : Hardlight 70%

Blend Mode : Pinlight

Blend Mode : Hardlight 100%

As you can see, three completely different results, and for an even more subtle effect, try adjusting the strength in your editor as well.

This film simulation can (currently) only be downloaded via Fresh Luts, and therefore only as 3DLut. De Lut is completely free to download and use in any way you wish.

Would you like the HaldClut version (PNG) ? – send me a message, and I’ll send you a link.

PictureFX Perfect Sunset

Click here to download

Compatible with most editing software, such as Adobe Photoshop (CS6 and +) Adobe After Effects (CS6 and +) Adobe Premiere Pro (CS6 and +) DaVinci Resolve , Affinity Photo and of course Darktable.
The list is too long to list them all here.


In Partnership With Mark G. Adams

Check out his latest article Here

Open Source Photography is a member of :

NEW PictureFX Lut Update – PictureFX Classic Chrome Gold

The new PictureFX Classic Chrome Gold LUT was created by combining an existing HaldClut (PNG) – namely my PFX Classic Chrome – and Color Mapping of very specific color oriented photos – in this case a photo by Lisa from Conwy UK (instagram – Lis welshie.wonders) Golden Textile @ https://www.pexels.com/ – Thank you Lisa !

The technique : I used RawTherapee and Darktable.
Rawtherapee for creating the special HaldClut based on my PFX Classic Chrome presets & Darktable for adding the Golden tone via Color Mapping.
Converted via IWLTBAP to 3DLut .Cube

Format : 3DLut 64x64x64 .Cube – usable in most image editing programs.

Very important :
To obtain the best result it is sometimes necessary to adjust the strength, but also the “Blend Mode”.
Depending on the photo and/or the subject, this can cause very large differences.
Below a few examples, each time at 100% strength but a different Blend Mode.

Blend Mode : Normal

Blend Mode : Lightness

Blend Mode : Overlay

As you can see, three completely different results, and for an even more subtle effect, try adjusting the strength in your editor as well.

This film simulation can (currently) only be downloaded via Fresh Luts, and therefore only as 3DLut. De Lut is completely free to download and use in any way you wish.

Would you like the HaldClut version (PNG) ? – send me a message, and I’ll send you a link.

PictureFX Classic Chrome Gold

Click here to download

Compatible with most editing software, such as Adobe Photoshop (CS6 and +) Adobe After Effects (CS6 and +) Adobe Premiere Pro (CS6 and +) DaVinci Resolve , Affinity Photo and of course Darktable.
The list is too long to list them all here.


In Partnership With Mark G. Adams

Check out his latest article Here

Open Source Photography is a member of :

New Luts Update – Fresh LUT’s

A database of Luts (all .cube format), searchable in various ways via keywords.
The Sites “About” : “freshLUTs is the world’s largest collection of free LUTs. You can browse and download any LUT you like. You can also add LUTs to your favorites and keep track of all the LUTs you downloaded. Filmmakers can upload their LUTs here and share it with the world”
CC0 Creative Commons
Free for commercial use
No attribution required – but it’s so right to do it anyway !

And for the rest of the explanation, I’ll let this gentleman speak below :

Fresh LUT’s

Database of FREE Luts

The World’s Largest Collection
Of Free LUTs

  • Format : Cube
  • Target : Videographers & Photography
  • More ? wait for my next publication…

The Largest Collection of HaldClut/Luts brought together” is Updated


In Partnership With Mark G. Adams

Check out his latest article Here

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New Recipe Update – Øyvind Nordhagen

This Oslo based photographer got in touch after finding “The Largest Collection…” here on OSP.
He has currently published two recipes, but what I immediately noticed is the very well researched and documented description in his recipes, that, and the pictures for illustration proof that a lot of work has gone into this recipes.
I also like the style in his street shots.

Øyvind Nordhagen

“Photographer based in Oslo. I write about photographic technique and editing.”

Modern Documentary Fujifilm Recipe

New American Color Fujifilm Recipe

Site link : oyvindwashere.medium.com

And there’s more…
Øyvind has a very distinct and interesting approach to the “Medium format look on small sensors”
It’s not the first time I’ve come across an article about this, but they all have a different approach.
Usually they work with several images (such as in a panorama) that are then combined, but then the process is not done yet – it is usually quite complicated. That is why his writing got my attention.
For those who are also interested in this type of “Simulation”, click below and discover another way to the “Medium format look on small sensors”


In Partnership With Mark G. Adams

Check out his latest article Here

Olympus Tough TG-6

Suppose you want a camera that you can easily put away,
is waterproof, shock proof, frost resistant, can shoot macro and far away, film in 4K, provides your pictures from exact shooting location, and if possible more…
Not an abnormal question I think, because if you are sportsman, adventurer, nature person and even a family man, you could be searching for such a camera.
I myself am a Bushcrafter, and need a camera that can handle something, sitting in my breast pocket chopping wood, wading through a field of blackberries, working in dirt and sand, wading through a stream…
Which camera could be an option ?

Continue reading “Olympus Tough TG-6”

Ivan Yolo – Ivan Cheam

Three Recipes especially for the Fujifilm X-T4 Camera

Ivan Yolo – Ivan Cheam

Cine Matte

Retro Allure

Urban Chic – Street Fashion

@ the recipe it says “content locked” : if you share, like, subscribe or tweet in the article, the recipe will be visible, you can also wait 240 seconds and it will also be released.


Also check out the MGA Color Chrome+ recipe, and the latest blog with pictures about it @ OneCameraOneLens by Mark G Adams !

In Partnership With Mark G. Adams

Check out his latest article Here


Berchirly Canvas/Leather Messenger 14inch

It’s been about eight months since I wrote about “The Bowery Berchirly” an ONA Camera Bag Alternative

Today I am writing about the bigger brother, although the smaller version can perfectly suffice for a day trip, and can easily hold a camera with 3 lenses – sometimes you just want more volume.
You could say the smaller version is the casual bag, well equipped but not over the top.
This bag is the more professional version : a laptop/tablet – camera with four or more lenses (of the type XF 18-135 / 70-300) – batteries and a lot of other accessories, it’s all possible. The dimensions are 35x27x11cm – 13.7×10.6×4.3inch.
Unlike the smaller version, this one is unpadded (at least not thick).
And that’s okay, a year or more ago I would rather have bags equipped with “Tenba” inserts, but lengthy trial and error has led me to prefer using pouches now.
By using an insert in a bag you lose a lot of volume in your bag – while with pouches you can fill the bag to your heart’s content, it’s just as safe – or safe enough, and there is still room for other personal items.

I have a green version of the bag, I think it’s less conspicuous, and it fits well in nature. In the photos I took of my bag it looks more bluish than green, but that is due to the smartphone I took the photos with, it’s really more of the typical “army green”.

The covid has turned the world upside down for all of us, and I haven’t been able to use the bag intensively in the last two years that I have had the bag. But the moments when it was possible, it was a nice bag to use.
What I personally like about this type of bag is that it is always very accessible – unlike a backpack that you have to take off every time.
I also brought it with me on my trip to see the Orient Express, and while waiting for the train, sitting on a bench with a bottle of water and something to eat that was also in the bag, I noticed how casual the bag was. No one noticed that I was “armed” with a camera and some lenses, just a regular guy waiting for his train to go to work. You can take this bag wherever you go, to the city, or to the zoo, and you can throw everything in it – your wallet, telephone, the newspaper, a bottle of water, sandwiches … and your camera equipment.
It is a very accessible all-round bag.

You can find this type of bag on Amazon and many other stores.
The price I paid for it was : € 41,24 or US $47.43 – £30.38

There are also versions available at a slightly higher price with built-in inserts – removable or not – but as mentioned, the bag gets a lot smaller inside then.

Other bags of this type : Billingham Hadley Pro – National Geographic Africa Midi Satchel – Think Tank – ONA The Brixton, all messenger/cross body type bags,

You may not be a fan of these “cheaper” bags, but consider this:
A while ago I needed a new watch, and I’m the type that goes through 100 reviews or more of something before I buy.
Now, in one of those reviews – a guy who was clearly versed in the world of watches – he talked about this particular model being a fake Rolex Submariner Date, but due to the Seiko mechanics of very good quality.
And he made the following statement: would you walk down the street with a Rolex watch worth about €25,000 every day, work with it, in the water in construction?
No, probably not unless your name is Jeff Bezos, but you would do it with a €150 watch.
Now, a Billingham doesn’t cost €25,000, however, I’d still be careful with a €500 bag, and I would hate it if it got damaged. So, if I can find a bag at one tenth of the price, I’ll take it, if it breaks over the years or I don’t like it anymore, we buy a new one – and in the meantime we have money left over for new lenses or other photo stuff.


Now, although the bag looks cool, it is not 100% waterproof (although they say it is)
There are various products available on the market for this,
but because I like the tough and rough of the bag, and because you can’t visually determine the waterproofness of many technical products (unless you purposely stand in the rain with it), I use an old army trick.
There’s wax, but you can also use candle wax.
I then lay the bag on a flat surface and scrub the bag with a candle so that the canvas gets a white sheen – don’t overdo it, it’s better to work in layers.
Then you take a hairdryer and melt the scraped candle wax into the canvas.
Even on the leather I use it – very little and carefully.
The bag can show stains, but I think that ads to the tough feeling.
You can regularly update your bag with candle wax and ensure a good watertightness.

To be clear, I have no advantage in any way whatsoever by mentioning the above store names or brands. I just recommend this product because I use it myself and I am very satisfied with it.

Thanks for reading !

Marc.

New Recipe erm.. well, it is the Fujifilm Simulation Recipe Generator

Well, yes, I’m not sure this is a real “Recipe” update for the “Largest List” 🙂
However, it might still generate some useful and surprising new recipes,
but still I think the recipe/quality level will not be on the high side.
Obtained from the Dutch Fuji X forum – thanks Guy’s ! (and Girls)

Fujifilm Simulation Recipe Generator

Click the “New Recipe” button for a new – yes, i think this is obvious 🙂

There is also a button to download the “unique” recipe in PDF format – very handy!

In Partnership With Mark G. Adams

Check out his latest article Here

Tamron 18-300mm f/3.5-6.3 Di III-A VC VX D for Fujifilm X Mount Announced

It’s only been a few days since me and Mark G Adams from OneCameraOneLens.com were talking about an 18-300mm for Fuji X,
and here she is – from Tamron !

TAMRON Announces Development of its First Lens for FUJIFILM X-Mount Tamron 18-300mm f/3.5-6.3 Di III-A VC VX D (coming 2021): BHphoto / AmazonUS

Source: Tamron 18-300mm f/3.5-6.3 Di III-A VC VX D for Fujifilm X Mount Announced

My first 100 posts

Yesterday I published my 100th post.
I started this new blog a little about a year ago,
it was in may 2020.
In the beginning there were not many visitors,
in the first month about 6, to about 15 in August.
Then from September it suddenly went up to 50, and just about three times that number in October, after that there was no stopping.
Last month we had around 1300 visitors from all over the world.
A total of 121 countries visited my website in the last year, of which the top 10 are the United States, Germany, United Kingdom, France, Italy, Belgium, Netherlands, Canada, Spain, Australia.
I owe most of that to my friend Mark G Adams, who did promote my modest blog and still does, and for that I would like to thank him here !
Mark, a very sincere thank you !!!

Mark was (unconsciously) also the reason that I started researching more in the world of Fujifilm, the film simulations (recipes) and the typical Fuji features.
Which rekindled the love for my original X100,
made me buy an X-T1 for manual photography – and I loved it,
which put me on the path of the X-H1 – and I loved it even more,
and through which I put my entire Pentax gear up for sale,
to eventually making the switch to : FUJIFILM

To all readers, followers, subscribers, likers…
For visiting and support : THANKS !

For all new visitors, or for those who do not follow this site yet,
PLEASE : follow, subscribe, like…
and let’s go for another 100 !

In Partnership With Mark G. Adams

Check out his latest article Here

New Recipe Update – E. Fung Photoblog

A late blog update, the article I had in the pipeline for last friday turned out to have a problem, the website – found via the WordPress Reader – suddenly turned out to be “Unsafe”, what exactly happened to it I don’t know, but today we are here with a new Recipe update.

However, first I would like to mention this : Everyone who works with Google Chrome on their computer is probably aware that the browser itself indicates whether a site is safe or not, you know it, the lock or an exclamation mark – but then you are already there – on that site !
If you would like to check whether a website is OK before your visit, simply enter the URL preceded by: http://google.com/safebrowsing/diagnostic?site= in Google search.
You can also just visit Google’s “Safe Browsing” page directly at https://transparencyreport.google.com/safe-browsing/search
and enter the desired link there.
So, hopefully this will help someone.

Back to the Recipe !

Fairly new website/photoblog, could be promissing.
Found three recipes:

  • Metro Style in warm & contrasty tone
  • Brownish, vintage-look recipe using Classic Chrome
  • Fujicolor Natura 1600 – different versions

E. Fung Photoblog

Website : https://my.fujifilmrecipes.com/

Currently three recipes, one on the Fujicolor Natura 1600 – versions for different X trans sensors


Get the latest Recipes and read the latest articles, like his last one about why you better print your photos, one that many of us rather easily overlook, but why we shouldn’t, read more at :

In Partnership With Mark G. Adams

Check out his latest article Here

Reblog from Fuji X Weekly : Fujifilm X-Trans I (X-Pro1 + X-E1) Film Simulation Recipe: Kodachrome II

Hey,
I had to reblog this article.
It concerns a Recipe, more specifically a Recipe for X-Trans I.
The range of Recipes for Fujifilm cameras is huge, but always more for the newer sensors, and owners of older Fujifilm cameras are usually left out in the cold.
That’s why I’m doing this reblog here, because Ritchie Roesch is already in our list of Recipe makers with his website Fuji X Weekly,
and also Thomas Schwab aka effzwo.thommy, who actually made this recipe.
And the party wasn’t over yet, the next day Ritchie already published another Recipe for X-Trans I on his blog.
So, if you still have an X-E1, X-Pro1 or X-M1, enjoy!

Storm Building Over Mountain Ridge – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-Pro1 – “Kodachrome II” Kodachrome is probably the most iconic photographic film ever made. It was legendary, and many people saw the world through its colors. Kodak produced Kodachrome film from 1935 through 2009, when it was suddenly discontinued. The Kodachrome name has been used […]

Fujifilm X-Trans I (X-Pro1 + X-E1) Film Simulation Recipe: Kodachrome II — FUJI X WEEKLY

If you have another Fujifilm camera – other X-Trans sensor, please visit my “The Largest Collection of Recipes brought together” page, and here you will definitely find something that suits you


Also on the website of my good friend Mark G Adams you can find many Recipes.
But Mark is a documentary photographer, and what always fascinates me are the family outings and group visits he does in the beautiful country of Wales.
So if you’re not a Recipe fan, know that here you’ll find great photos and descriptions of fascinating places in Wales.
Cymru am byth”

In Partnership With Mark G. Adams

Check out his latest article Here

“Unboxing” GrossGrade Professional Color Enhancement & Grading

Hey,
A “normal unboxing” is a video in which someone receives a package and unpacks it. The unpacker provides a video and the steps he takes with comments and thus gives his very first impression.
Well, I don’t have a package here, but I do have some new software that I found on the internet – for me and probably many of you it’s something new, and it got me really excited, so I wanted to share this :

GrossGrade

What is GrossGrade ?
The official explanation on the GrossGrade website :
GrossGrade is a software environment for photo / image color correction or grading. you can choose and use various color correction tools (modules) from the constantly expanding library. In addition, the environment allows you to create your own tools or modify existing for solving a large number of tasks related to analysis, color correction, calibration, as well as non-trivial tasks.

Ok, let’s say you want to make a film simulation in Rawtherapee, Adobe, Darktable … it’s basically the same with all software,
the normal steps are ->

  • load photo in your favorite image program,
  • make adjustments,
  • load a neutral Hald and apply the adjustments to it
  • save as Lut (PNG)
  • optionally convert to Cube format
  • load photo in your favorite image program and apply Lut

Actually a complicated affair + the adjustments that you can make in an image editing program are rather limited.
Can it be otherwise?
Yes, there are paid programs like “3D Lut Creator
But this site wouldn’t be Open Source Photography if there wasn’t an alternative to be found for it, and the alternative is : GrossGrade.
The program is developed for Windows and is still in the Beta phase, but already works like a dream.
And, through Wine it also works on Linux.

So, this software is for Professional Color Enhancing and Grading for Photo and Video.
But aren’t we all professionals?
So, I think we all need this 🙂

Let’s see what Jarvis has to say:

In the example below, a Fujifilm Raw file (Raf) is loaded directly into GrossGrade, in this case, adjustments are made in the Curve module and saved as PNG Lut intended for use in RawTherapee.

More Tools:

Below links to the different pages of the CrossGrade website – click on the pictures :

Click on the picture to go to “SCREENSHOTS”
Click on the picture to go to “HELP and MANUAL”
Click on the picture to go to “DOWNLOADS”

A word of caution,
This software works great on my 10 year old Dell portable,
and I’ve had no trouble getting it running on my Linux installation via Wine. That’s not always the case with software made for Windows. The makers have clearly done a good job thus far.
However,
Especially on Windows, which can be fickle and stubborn by nature, things can always go wrong.
So always make a backup of all your important files (you should always do this before installing new software).
And if possible, invite a handy computer acquaintance or friend who can help you if Murphy decides to stop by.


Recipes cannot be made with the above software, how to do this on your Fujifilm camera can be found here, as well as a large collection of existing recipes and many other interesting articles:

In Partnership With Mark G. Adams

Check out his latest article Here

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