Linux Open Source Photography – Spotlight on Legacy Lenses, especially Olympus OM Zuiko – Lens Mount Adapters – The Fujifilm X System – Film Simulation, HaldClut, My own PictureFX film simulations and more.
Well, it all went pretty fast at the end of April, I got sick, I still am a bit and before I knew it it was time again for the release of a new OSP magazine. So in the end it was a bit chaotic. I’ve been writing about Big Lenses, Adapters, and Image Processing for a while, but then none of it got finished. That will be for the next OSP magazine. There was also an update to my PictureFX Luts, but you can still check it out on FreshLuts.com, they are the last two additions if you do a search for “PictureFX”.
The newest OSP magazine, and this month we have three topics :
A new recipe update by Justin Gould, some are his own creation, others are adapted, nevertheless a very nice collection that should not be missing here.
I think many are familiar with the following problem: You were the official photographer at your friend John’s wedding to your sister Jane. A year later, your aunt Olivia asks about that one photo, but where is it exactly? If only you could search for all weddings on your computer, better yet, just go straight to aunt Olivia, wouldn’t that be great ! That is why a good Camera and/or SD Card workflow is important.
When you come home after a photo shoot or trip, and you are going to copy your photos and/or videos to your computer, how do you do that ?
Many use their regular photo & video editing program to copy photos and/or videos, however, can it structurally organize your pictures and videos by renaming them ? Also simultaneously backup everything to a NAS, external drive or second disk ? In that case, this article is not for you.
But if your regular program just blindly copy the photos, or you still do copying and backup all manually – your folders, photos and videos all have unstructured names, then you need a photo & video downloader.
Not quite with what I mean ? Well, your filenames look like this: DCIM-12345.jpg or IMG-20220501-WA1234.jpg and DSCF12345 Ever tried to do a search on your computer, and try to find pictures of that particular year, time, event, person, animal or plant? Well, even if you name your computers folders in a correct way it’s next to impossible, unless you have an elephant’s memory. For example, much more convenient would be: 2022.05.01-13.15.10-wedding-john-jane-aunt-olivia.jpg – now, if you want to find all weddings, your best friend John, his wife Jane or even pictures of your favorite aunt Olivia, its childs play. Another : 2022.05.01-13.15.10-grand-canyon-river-coyote.jpg – the Grand Canyon, all rivers, coyotes ? evenly easy. By using identifiers or keywords and wildcards for searching you can find anything from any place and any time.
Over the years that I’ve been shooting digitally, I’ve copied my own photos in various ways – in the beginning manually, and then renaming everything myself also manualy. Later, through various image editing and viewer software, but the options were always rather limited.
In the end I found two that offer every professional or amateur photographer/videographer enough options to get this job done without a headache.
For Windows and Mac, there is DIM – Digital Image Mover by Alan Light – this software has already gotten a bit old, but it still does what it should and fast.
As the tabs in the software suggest “configuration” – “more configuration” – “even more configuration” there are a lot of settings – options. Using the name of a job or customer in the file name, it’s no problem at all. Copying and backup at the same time is childsplay.
On the download page you wil also find more information about compatibility with various OS and a manual.
For Linux, there is Rapid Photo Downloader. In the years that I have been working on Linux I have seen this program evolve strongly, and I can assure you, it’s great!
In renaming and structuring that naming, DIM maybe has a little bit more options, but Rapid Photo Downloader does have thubnails, which is nice, but has one feature that definitely puts it on par with DIM, maybe even slightly better – more on that further…
The difference between the two is that Rapid Photo Downloader has a thumbnail preview of your photos. It also creates a timeline (bottom left) from your picture card or camera, so you can select and treat specific photos taken on a certain day and hour separately, ie you can take photos at different days, places and subjects, and depending on the selected day and time, rename – copy and backup – and that is simply unbelievably useful !
One more small mention, although Rapid Photo Downloader is intended for Linux, it is also possible to use this on Windows:
via Windows Subsystem for Linux (WSL)
in a Linux virtual machine or Docker container, either on your local machine or on Azure all at your own risk of course – although doing so should do no harm – at most a system crash and then the necessary reboot. Also for Chromebook – Chrome OS and Mac you have the possibility to run Linux programs. Just type and search it on Google and get started.
I’m always looking for new interesting recipes, but not all of them make it into “The Largest Collection of Recipes brought together”. Many are copies with minimal differences, and even if they are improvements, no one wants a list of 5000 recipes in the end. If you find a recipe that you more or less like, you can make minor adjustments to it yourself – you don’t need another recipe for this – you only need a few good ones.
Long story short, Justin Gould is in the “Largest Collection…” It is a beautiful collection on its own for X Trans IV cameras, and there are some gems between them.
If you’re looking for other recipe lists, as far as I know, the two websites listed below are the only non-commercial ones besides mine that offer a list of various Fujifilm Recipes. Be sure to pay them a visit too.
No sharpness tests, pixel counting or other technical mumbo jumbo, just everyday pictures with the intention of showing the view angle, color pattern and character, and my thoughts of the lens.
A lens review as I did when I first started with OSP, except for a few extra words about the camera used and the special adapter.
First a bit about the test camera, it’s the legendary but somewhat forgotten Fujifilm X-T1. I think for many the camera that started the whole Fuji adventure. The X-T1 is the smallest of them all, but in terms of dials, buttons and EVF, it has the same features as its bigger brothers, only it’s a 16MP. And that’s really not a limitation, especially if you mainly publish on the web. In terms of performance – continuous shooting – video – …, it makes sense that the camera cannot be compared to the X-T2, 3 and 4. However, in my opinion there is no better camera than the X-T1 if you use it the same way as a classic analog camera, and preferebly with legacy lenses. I just wanted to emphasize that again, because there are many young student photographers looking for a good learning camera – and evenly amateur, semi and professional photographers looking for a good “old school” digital camera. The Fuji X-T1 is that all, if not more.
The K&F Concept PK/DA – FX adapter, perhaps a slightly weirder view, because of the large matte silver ring, but that ring has a special function. In contrast to the standard adapter without a ring, you can also use lenses that do not have an aperture ring themselves, but there is, in my opinion an even greater advantage. When used on a fully manual lens like this 28mm M series, in combination with the aperture on the lens, you can use it as an “aperture preset” lens. You set the lens aperture to the value you want to use, say f8.0, and now, by turning the silver ring you can adjust the aperture from all the way open to the pre-set aperture. No more searching with your fingers, looking at settings – just set in advance, open aperture all the way, focus, close and shoot.
The SMC Pentax-M 2.8 28mm – PK mount (here used is the first version – no silver nose)
I started the article with “no sharpness tests, pixel counting or other technical mumbo jumbo”, well that’s for a reason, because if you search for other reviews, you’ll notice that some photographers start to focus on the small details – however important in their eyes – those types of reviews scare off other novice or experimenting photographers, when it’s completely normal that they aren’t perfect, and that’s also the main reason many other photographers use them. Like the Helios 44-2 with its great bokeh, for example. If you want perfection, just stay away from it I would say.
This version was produced from 1977 to 1982. To get an idea, the cost then purely converted to euro now was around €150 to 160. The newer version, from 1982 to 1984, costed about €220 to €230. If you look at what is available today, the Chinese lenses for example, that price was certainly not bad.
Nowadays you can find this lens on eBay and other secondhand shops for around €50. You have to look at everything in that context. It’s a manual lens from about 40 years ago, now available for half the price of a Chinese lens. Then you can’t expect Leica quality, but photos are still enlarged to pixel size in order to demonstrate the optical imperfection. CA and blur in the edges at f2.8, even modern and much more expensive lenses are not perfect, so don’t expect it from an old lens from €50.
Ok, enough about the pixel peepers, now more about the lens.
28mm is equal to 42mm on APS-C format, slightly wider than the standard lens, but certainly not an extreme wide angle. Suitable for many purposes such as street and landscape, but also portrait. A good all round lens I would say.
On the lens you will find f8 and the 3m indication in red. When you set the lens accordingly, everything is virtually sharp from about 1.5m to infinity. Useful for street photography.
Furthermore, the lens is easy to focus via focus peaking and is very forgiving in focusing.
The build quality of this lens is excellent, it will easily last for many decades to come if you take good care of it. Taking good care of it means not in dusty and/or humid environments, just like for any other lens.
Important: Some tips to pay attention to if you want to buy one. Dust is usually not a problem, unless it really is a dust nest, but I’ve never experienced that. Dust will rarely cause a problem or show up on the result. Worse is mold, and with lenses of this type extremely hard to detect, it can just be a glare that covers the entire lens surface and then it’s virtually invisible to the eye – even when you hold them up to the light. The glass of this lens is small – very small, which makes it all the more difficult. A good helper is a small bright LED light, by moving the lens in the light beam you can better notice possible fungi. Mold can cause all kinds of problems – blur, flare, discolorations…
It’s not always easy, especially if you want to buy online, because you can’t check anything. In any case, read the seller’s description carefully.
The photos, all taken on a partly cloudy day. I wasn’t in optimal shape, and on some I forgot to turn the aperture down – in other words, some are set to hyperfocal distance but with fully open aperture (f2.8 should have been f8.0), and yet they came out decently – that’s why I wrote that focusing is forgiving.
Conclusion. Even wide open, the lens is reasonably sharp. Set to F8 and 3m, you can shoot almost anything without having to focus. It is a small and fine lens that offers many possibilities for manual photography. Less suitable for macro, although it can be focused very precisely, but simply because of the wide viewing angle, it is less suitable for this. Mounted on a T series Fujifilm camera, this lens really shines, which can be very surprising and confronting for a photographer who has not learned to work with an analog SLR. The “working” slows you down, and you really learn to watch and frame better, the feeling is almost like working with real film, I can assure you. I can give you a few more tips to enhance that analog feeling:
set the camera to single shot
use your camera’s mechanical shutter
shoot jpg and/or raw to choice
if jpg, do not use a film recipe, but set your camera as neutral as possible, for example with Provia or Pro Negative Standard – After you’ve viewed the first photos on your computer, you can make some adjustments in your camera to contrast, but don’t overdo it, and keep it as natural as possible.
I would completely turn off your camera’s LCD monitor.
set your iso to one sensitivity before you go – preferebly iso 200 or 400, and don’t change it during the trip – those used to be the most standard sensitivities.
you get the best out of this lens at f5.6 – f8.0 and f11.
do not use a UV filter, possibly use a lens hood to protect your lens
you can get your old slower SD cards out of the closet – you won’t need a fast card
you can focus with focus peaking, but personally I think the focus assist button is even better for this, and it slows down even more
At first it might feel a bit strange, is all that necessary you might think, but stick to it, and a whole new world will open up to you. I assure you.
As promised, an extra special OSP Magazine issue dedicated to three Fujifilm Simulation Recipes :
What have Fujifilm Simulation Recipes have to do with Sci-fi games? well, more than I expected. The creator of these recipes is very in to night photography, and as he himself says – there are not many recipes for night photography to be found, so he decided to develop a few himself. However, he also has a strong interest in gaming, more specifically Sci-fi games. And let it be precisely on this that he based his recipes.
In the OSP magazine of March I was talking about the new Olympus OM-1, For those who are already thinking – yes, he bought the camera – ha ha, no, but who knows! First I want to find out more about it, and in Belgium it is not currently available. The problem is that those who are already writing about it, often have relationships with the new Olympus company – JIP (Japan Industrial Partners) And to what extent are those reviews reliable or completely impartial? But we now have a solution for that: Tone Bacon, a professional photographer, not connected to JIP. Below the link to his first impressions, and according to Tone, a deeper review will follow. There are also some pages with pictures, so check them out! TasView New OM-1, First Thoughts
It’s been a while since I’ve created a new Lut, and to be honest my interest in new Luts had faded a bit too. I started making them all primarily for myself, for use in RawTherapee, and with Darktable also used as an editor, and making videos in ShotCut, 3DLut’s or Cube files also have been added. Now I have my own PictureFX Lut versions of most Fujifilm simulations, as well as a fairly extensive collection of special Luts such as the PictureFX Infrared, the Ultramax, Cinestill, Silbera, Perfect Sunset and many others. Because of this fairly extensive collection of Fujifilm simulations and special Luts, I really didn’t need any more extra.
Ok, so why a new Lut, and what does Superia have to do with the word Sakura ? Not much really, only, Sakura stands for the beautiful Japanese blossom that exhibits its splendor around this time of year. If I am really crazy about one flower, it is those beautiful pink Japanese blossoms. The why : I’ve been having a bit of trouble shooting for a while now, but since I’ve been working more with my Olympus cameras I have rediscovered my spirit. However, Olympus cameras don’t have Fujifilm simulations, and although the built-in settings do give reasonably nice shots, I missed my Fujifilm look a bit. So, I had very nice shots of various blossoms, including the Japanese cherry tree blossom. On those shots I tried my PictureFX Fujifilm Luts, but I was not satisfied. On the Olympus sensor, the Velvia was too saturated, the Provia too normal, and the Superia too hard. So I dug deep into my prototype files, and coincidentally an earlier version of PictureFX Superia v.III I made was the best match for the Olympus ORF files, and showed off my blossoms the best. The Exposure still needed some fine tuning, but that always is.
And so I renamed an earlier prototype of Superia after the most beautiful blossom there is – Superia Sakura.
But this Lut is of course not only for Japanese cherry blossoms, no, you can use it for anything but especially where you want the typical Superia look, but a little more subtle.
Below a link to a zip file containing two .png files (125×125 and 512×512) and one .cube file (25x25x25) – this last one is the same as on FreshLuts.
These Luts can be used in almost all image editing programs for Photo and Video, from Adobe, Luminar, … I myself tested them on RawTherapee, Darktable and Shotcut.
Well, the last two years have been a real rollercoaster. We were stuck with Covid 19 for two years. And to be honest, we’re still far from getting rid of Covid I think. Also striking for me was the more obvious presence of the climate changes, something we urgently need to do something about. And then suddenly there was war – there is always war – but this one is different, this one could send us back 60 years in time, when there was still a cold war with Russia. You would think (hope) that humanity had learned its lesson by now, but apparently not. Anyway, we can safely say that the last few years were not “Normal”.
In those two years I have been busy with the switch from Pentax to Fujifilm, switching camera types, my new website, discovering Olympus cameras … But getting outside and taking pictures was almost out of the question. Not that it was impossible, but I just couldn’t do it, even today it’s still difficult. All the changes have had an effect on me, I think for many of us.
And in all that, spring of 2022 has begun! Spring in nature is change, renewal…
For me it’s the time to hit the reset button, and start again. in my head, and of less world importance, also in my photography. maybe for you too? Back to Normal!
Personal gear talks, one likes it, others don’t. I myself like to read what other photographers use and for what, it’s that way I ended up buying a Fujifilm and eventually an Olympus camera. Especially with the Olympus, because I didn’t really like the M4/3 system much. It was the gear talk of a female wildlife photographer that convinced me. I hope it helps someone.
A specialized camera system
I’m not the only photographer who uses two camera systems ore more. To be honest, when I started using an Olympus camera next to my Fuji’s it felt a bit like cheating at first. It was the same feeling I had in the beginning when switching from Pentax DSLR to Fuji mirrorless. That feeling is unnecessary, many photographers (pro or amateur) use a different camera system in addition to their main camera, sometimes even several, and that’s how it is with myself. Why ? well, when you cook pasta, you do it in a big pot, not ? and for one egg you use a small pan, don’t you ? The right tool for a specific job. And so it is with photography. I love my two Fuji X-H1’s, very old school handling, great for landscape, street, architecture, but for shooting birds and other wildlife, nothing compares to my Olympus cameras. So it’s just about the right camera for a specific purpose. More on this further in this writing.
How many Cameras do you need
Someone recently asked me, why so many cameras, and why two of each? I wanted to get into this, but first, I think many photographers have a backup camera, isn’t it ? so, many photographers also have at least two cameras. Yes its true, I’ve had quite a few cameras, but the idea behind it is “by trying, you’ll find what suits you best”. All of those cameras have been sold since.
But, having two of a certain camera has a reason. 1) a second camera is always interesting I think, in my case there is a normal lens on one and a telephoto on the other – that way you don’t have to change lenses all the time, i find this especially easy when i am hiking in nature, taking landscape pictures, but also want to photograph birds and animals. Additionally, for video I sometimes use a fully rigged cage, also then it is more convenient to have a second camera for normal shots. 2) a camera has a certain lifespan – in sale new and availability second-hand, and also before it eventually dies on you. The more time passes, the harder a particular type of camera will be to find, and the more a camera will be used (more shutter actuations), and probably sold over and over again. When you have finally found a camera that you “really” like to use, then you want to be sure that its lifespan is assured for many years. Important is also from who you buy from. I don’t like to buy a camera from a professional who uses his camera for his living, there is a good chance that this camera has been used heavily, and has a high shutter count. But you can find many cashual photographers, who buy an expensive camera and rarely use it – those are the sellers you’re looking for. Usually in pristine condition, and extreme low shutter counts. My camera’s (all second hand) have less than 2 to 3 thousand actuations when I bought them. With advanced or pro cameras, that’s as good as new.
How many Megapixels do you realy need
Much has been written on this subject, So I’m going to keep it short. I think most photographers have pretty much the same idea and feeling in this area, more megapixels is better, isn’t it? 16 mp is for amateurs ? Those same photographers have forgotten that not so many years ago we had to make do with pro cameras of 10mp and less. Those 10mp photos were also used for professional purposes, and everyone liked it. I’ll be honest, I’m also a bit “megapixel hungry” it’s being pumped into us by camera sales talk and advertising. I only want to say, if you want to buy an older camera, and it happens to have “only” 16mp, well, unless you want to go wall-to-wall printing (and then again) 16mp is more than enough for A3 size (Tabloid or Ledger) and certainly for web use.
You can probably think of other pros and cons, however, just look at less megapixels as a possible alternative, and I promise you, you won’t be dissapointed.
My Fujifilm Gear
My most used or main cameras are my two Fujifilm X-H1, unlike other Fuji cameras (exept the X-T4), these have image stabilization and are ergonomically more comparable to a DSLR – I like that very much. I use these (two) cameras for general photography – architecture, street, landscape… I also have an X-T1, a good camera for my grandchildren to learn to shoot with, and an original X100, my camera for pictures with the family 🙂
I sold all my other Fujifilm cameras ( X-E1, X-E2, X-T10, X-T20 ) Lenses:
XF 16mm f2.8
XF 23mm f2.8
7Artisans 35mm f1.8
Tokina SZX 400mm f8.0
Samyang 500mm f8.0
My Olympus Gear
When it comes to birds and other animals and everything at far distances, I prefer to use my Olympus EM5 Mark II – I even bought a second EM5MKII, these cameras are that good ! The camera has 5-axis image stabilization and due to the crop factor of 2, my “long” telephoto lenses are much smaller and lighter than lenses for the Fuji APSC system. The “low weight” is also a very big advantage when you are “hunting” for birds or traveling on foot in the woods. I think it’s really a great camera system for nature and sports photography and I like to use it for that. As for my EM5MKII, both cameras have just over 2k actuations and together I bought them for less than €500, that’s less than one of my X-H1’s ! but you have to be quick as they are going very fast these days.
Olympus 30mm Macro
Panasonic 12-35mm f2.8 Pro
Tokina SZX 400mm f8.0 via K&F adapter
EDC – Every Day Camera
The camera I always have with me is the Olympus EM10MKII. For a while it was my X100, but shooting options were rather limited. Combined with the pancake 14-42mm lens, my EM10MKII is even smaller than my X100. And I have all the advantages of the Olympus system such as stabilization, electronic shutter, peaking, magnification, etc.. The camera works also great with old manual lenses, I sometimes put my old OM zuiko lenses on it with a K&F pro adapter. It’s hard not to fall in love with this camera. More about it here. Looks good, works great and is dirt cheap!
Bushcraft or Adventure Camera
I also use a compact camera, the Olympus TG-6, this camera is again specialized in a certain photography field, namely action and adventure. The quality of the photos/videos is not of the same level as the 4/3 and APSC system, but good enough. You can use this camera under all circumstances and it fits in a small jacket pocket. In the rain, under water, in freezing temperatures, this camera follows you anywhere, even under the most extreme conditions. Truly a camera for rough and tough photography.
Bags and Cases
The bags that I use have remained the same the last few years, and that means something to me, because I am not easily satisfied with a bag. These are also the three bags I had previously written a review about. Below is a small overview, and how I use them.
The smallest of the three : “The Bowery Berchirly” an ONA Camera Bag Alternative, best used for one camera and one or two lenses plus some personal stuff. Link to Review here.
A bit bigger : Berchirly Canvas/Leather Messenger 14inch, my most used bag actually. Depending on the camera type to be carried, it can hold one or two cameras and a few lenses. It also makes a lot of difference whether you use an insert like Tenba, or lens and camera pouches – more about pouches in the review below. When using this bag with my Olympus cameras I can easily carry four lenses and two cameras, and have a range from macro to super telephoto in one bag. Link to the review.
The largest of the three : The CADEN F1 Camera Bag. This bag is slightly larger than the previous one, but has extra pockets on the outside that you can use for accessories. At the bottom there are straps to attach a tripod.
Besides the bags I also have two waterproof plastic camera cases. I use them when I travel on the motorbike or when I take camera material with me in nature for several days. They protect the equipment in it against the hardest drops, dust, dirt, moisture and even water.
Mine came from a wholesaler in the Netherlands, and were fairly cheap for good quality. The inner dimensions of the cases are 40.6 x 33 x 17.4 cm, the cost was approximately €43 including shipping to Belgium. For those who are interested, below the address and the web link to cases with other dimensions.
Not quite sure which dimensions would best suit your equipment? Then you can go to My Case Builder – https://mycasebuilder.eu/ and make a simulation of what can be done in a certain case. The application does not need to be installed on your PC, but is completely web-based. In the Library of the program you will find a very extensive collection of existing Case brands and sizes, you can also enter your own custom dimensions. In the same library you will also find cameras of various brands and types, and their corresponding lenses and types. Also accessories and the like – you name it, it’s there, and if it isn’t – you can also add your own photos of camera (material) and dimensions – everything is possible. The nice thing is that you can use this application to make a simulation to optimally fill and use your camera case, without having to cut the foam rubber.
I can be brief on this. I rarely use a tripod, because all my cameras have internal image stabilization. I sometimes use a one leg tripod for photographing birds with super long telephoto lenses, and a micro tripod that can easily be put in the bag next to the camera, for macro photography, for example.
Photographers can be critical to other fellow photographers, and are sometimes very firm in their own opinion and how something should be done, just a few examples:
I only use my 50mm, no more than that is necessary
why do you need a lens with a super range, that’s rubbish
only Canon (or Nikon for that reason) makes professional cameras
I only buy lenses that are sharp to the pixel
kit lenses are no good, only expensive lenses are and so you can write books full. Sometimes they can be very harsh and negative. But whatever another photographer ever says or claims to you, stay true to your heart and feeling. If you feel good about your gear, and you’re actually happy with your photos, don’t doubt yourself.
It was the Olympus E-M10 Mark I that made me discover the advantages of the M4/3 system. This camera has 3-axis image stabilization and a crop factor of two due to the characteristics of the sensor. In the beginning I connected this camera to my manual Olympus Zuiko OM lenses, more specifically the OM Zuiko 300mm f4.5, via an adapter. It quickly became apparent that this compact stabilized combination was great for wildlife photography.
But the Olympus E-M10 Mark I does not have a “silent shutter”- which is a must in nature, nor does it have a fast electronic shutter. Also no 5-axis image stabilization that my X-H1 does have. So, this is where the upgrade to the Olympus E-M10 Mark II comes in.
Why the Olympus E-M10 Mark II and not the Mark III version ? Well, the more time passes, the cheaper older models get. Nowadays you can buy an Olympus E-M10 Mark II for around €200, while the Mark III is still easily sold for twice that amount. And then a choice is quickly made. The Mark III does have advantages over the Mark II, but it’s up to you to determine whether these improvements are worth the extra cost. The Mark III is faster, 14fps vs 8fps – more focus points, 121 vs 81 – and has a higher video resolution – however, there are features on the Mark II version that are no longer on the Mark III version, if you are really interested in an Olympus E-M10, look up the comparison in Google via Olympus E-M10 Mark II vs E-M10 Mark III. You will be surprised that the E-M10 Mark II is more popular. For me, the Mark II is fast enough, I only use one focus point, and 1920 FHD video is enough for me.
But why buy an entry level camera when you already have an advanced Olympus, the EM5MKII ? Well, the EM10MKII has its advantages : Flip up screen instead of a fully articulated screen (better for street photography), Pop up electronic flash, it is smaller and lighter which makes it more interesting for street photography. Also as a backup camera because it is easier to put away, and it is even cheaper than an EM5MKII.
But not only is it smaller than the EM5MKII, it’s even smaller than a Fujifilm X-T1 ! That, together with its other qualities, makes it a great camera to have with you all the time. It’s an Every Day Camera, which has a better image quality than the TG6, and can also be equipped with lenses without taking up too much space. Equipped with the pancake 14-42mm lens, you already have a lot of options.
That, of course, got me thinking. The reason I like the fujifilm X-T1 is because it has dedicated dials, and the Olympus is equipped with the well-known PASM dial. But when it comes to using the camera with old lenses, the little Olympus also has its advantages – more specifically internal image stabilization, which the X-T1 does not have, and is also equipped with focus peaking and a better magnification than the Fuji. Honestly, the longer I spend time with Olympus cameras, the more I love them !
Olympus E-M10 II Specs:
16MP – Four Thirds CMOS Sensor
ISO 200 – 25600 ( expands to 100)
Micro Four Thirds Mount – Crop Factor 2
Five stops Sensor-shift Image Stabilization
3.00″ Tilting Screen
2360k dot Electronic viewfinder
8.0fps continuous shooting
Full HD – 1920 x 1080 video resolution
390g. 120 x 83 x 47 mm – so actualy 80 grams lighter than the EM5MKII
A slightly earlier issue of the new OSP Magazine for March. For those who hadn’t noticed, the magazine layout – more specifically the yellow border around the magazine – was adapted at the last minute out of solidarity to the colors of the Ukrainian flag, Blue-Yellow.
My Fuji and … the Tamron 18-300mm f3.5-6.3 Di III – A VC VXD FX
She’s finally here! the Tamron 18-300mm f3.5-6.3 Di III – A VC VXD FX. It was pre ordered on 5/10/2021, and delivered on 17/02/2020 – four months and a half ! In the meantime I have been able to use and test it thoroughly – more importantly, I have been able to compare it well next to my two Fuji XF 18-135 & 70-300mm lenses.
Is it as good as claimed on commercial websites? Can she replace two Fujifilm lenses with one lens? Is this the only lens you will ever need? Go to my review here and find out.
The art of making recipes is not for everyone, yes, every now and then you come across an exceptional recipe from an unknown person, but most of the time they come from the same stable. This is both an exceptional recipe and also from a well-known maker, the Kodak GT 800-5 recipe from Ritchie Roesch – Fuji X Weekly :
New Recipe Update – X-Trans III – Kodak GT 800-5 – Fuji X Weekly
Not a new recipe below, but a link to a wealth of recipes made by Mark G. Adams – One Camera One Lens. And not just any link, the link goes to a PDF document that you can download, put it on your smartphone/tablet and you always have access to a wealth of recipes from one of the best recipe makers out there. Check it out!
New Recipe Update – Fujifilm Quick Reference Recipes – Mark G. Adams
Andrei Dima, a professional photographer from Romania. You should definitely visit Andrei’s website, and he also made some recipes – and judging by his photos, these should be worth trying. And not coincidentally, he also has recipes based on the two photographers mentioned above, namely Ritchie Roesch and Mark G. Adams, so definitely an article to read.
In the meantime, this OSP Magazine from March is already the 7th monthly edition since I stopped making weekly, sometimes even two blogs a week. To my great surprise, and through those monthly Magazines, the number of readers – and therefore visitors to my modest website – has at least doubled, in some cases even tripled !
Was publishing once a month a good move? I think so. I find it much more pleasant to have time to write what I really want, I think that this can only positively influence the quality of the website. And I think it did. I would therefore like to thank all loyal (and new) readers for their regular visits to my website, keep liking, following and spreading the word.
She’s finally here! the Tamron 18-300mm f3.5-6.3 Di III – A VC VXD FX. It was pre ordered on 5/10/2021, and delivered on 17/02/2020 – four months an a half ! I have never had to wait this long for a lens. In the meantime I have been using and testing it thoroughly – more importantly, I have been able to compare it well next to my two Fuji XF 18-135 & 70-300mm lenses. Is it as good as claimed on commercial websites? Can she replace two Fujifilm lenses with one lens? Is this the only lens you will ever need? Well, before we get there, let’s unpack the lens. The rest will then follow automatically.
The lens came in a white sturdy cardboard box. In the box, the lens was packed in a kind of paper bag, between two cardboard lens holders. A quick guide in (many) languages on a large paper sheet printed on both sides. Also a smaller yellow colored pamphlet with precautions for safe use. So actually packaged fairly environmentally friendly, and no waste of trees on encyclopedia thick manuals in 1001 languages. There is a red sticker on the box that indicates that you can register for a 5-year warranty online.
And here I have to mention a small problem. The box states a 5 year warranty after registration at 5years.tamron.eu And this was the first thing I was going to do. The website stated that I needed a sticker code that would be on the warranty card, however, there was no warranty card in the box, and in the form on Tamron’s website, Fujifilm wasn’t even in the dropdown list of the camera body you had to specify what the lens was for.
Now, in retrospect, something was mentioned about the warranty card on an earlier page of Tamron, apparently not in all countries, maybe even dealer dependent, a warranty card is included. The registration for the 5-year warranty must then be done through the dealer. So something to keep in mind.
How the lens felt:
I started comparing it with my two Fujifilm lenses, namely the XF 18-135mm and XF 70-300mm. The outside of the lens feels more “plastic” than the Fuji FX lenses – if you tap the lens with your fingernail, you’ll hear the difference to. The plastic of the Fujifilm lenses almost looks like metal (aluminium), while the Tamron’s plastic feels much more fragile.
The lens is quite smooth with no buttons or switches except for one, the lens block button. It is a pity that there is no manual control of the aperture on the lens. This is of course possible on the camera with one of the command dials, but with Fujifilm I like that everything is also operable as with an analog camera, so I do miss the manual control of the aperture on the lens.
The rubber ring of the zoom gives a very good grip, which is good, because the lens does have some resistance when zooming in/out – as far as it is now i think the button to block the lens from extending is unnecessary. The rubber ring for manual focus is slightly smaller than the one on the Fuji FX lens – I have not tested manual focus yet. The weight of the lens is just a few grams higher than the FX 70-300mm, but still not too heavy to walk around all day, you have to keep in mind that this will probably be the only lens you have with you, in almost all conditions – if she performs well that would be great! The lens fits well in hand, both for people with smaller or larger hands.
Weight compared to its Fujifilm counterparts: (left XF70-300-middle Tamron 18-300-right XF18-135)
Size compared to its Fujifilm counterparts:
Lens test – Tamron 18-300 compared to Fuji 18-135 and 70-300:
Open the photos in the gallery, the last bit of the file name contains which lens is used and the focal setting – for example xf18135-18 – was taken with the Fujifilm XF 18-135mm set to 18mm – all pictures taken with the Fujifilm X-H1.
It looks nice and sunny outside in the pictures, but make no mistake, it was 5 degrees outside and wind gusts of 60/70 km per hour. The camera setting was iso 400, 1/125, Pro Neg Std., and stabilization enabled – Only scaled down for web at 1980px and saved at 70%.
A few more photos taken with the Tamron 18-300:
Close shots are also possible, and the results are not too bad:
Comparison left Fuji XF 70-300mm on 300mm, and right Tamron 18-300mm on 300mm:
Comparison left Fuji XF 18-135 set at 135mm, right Tamron actualy set on 148mm – both enlarged 200%
Comparison left Fuji XF 18-135 set at 18mm, right Tamron set at 18mm – both enlarged 200%
First off, I bought this Tamron 18-300mm with my own money , as well as the Fujifilm 18-135 and 70-300mm. I am in no way sponsored, and take no advantage in any way in doing this review.
Regardless of how the lens feels, it is weather-sealed and replaces two Fujifilm lenses, which I think is a big advantage. The weight is ok, and the size is good. I took many more photos than added above, and did not find any vignetting, or certainly not noticeable, in any of the photos – taken at 18mm. The color and character of the lens is very similar to the Fujifilm lenses. Sometimes I see lens reviews where they talk about lens distortion, I haven’t noticed any significant distortion. Personally, I don’t think that unless the distortion is huge, nobody would notice – unless you’re really shooting a grid or buildings, something where there are a lot of straight lines. So also in this area the Tamron is ok. Sharpness ? well, it’s sharp, but not as sharp as the Fujifilm lenses. She can’t be called blurry either, I think the sharpness is acceptable under most circumstances. The lens stabilization is great, and has allowed me to shoot all the shots during a lot of wind and also at maximum focal length. The lens stabilization works together with the camera and therefore does not have a separate switch. You can activate or deactivate the stabilization in the menu of your camera. Using the Fujifilm X-H1, which also has built-in stabilization, works very well with this lens, and may have contributed to these great results.
The reason I bought this lens is because, when you have one camera with you, and want to take pictures where you should switch a lot between 18-135mm and 70-300mm and honestly, 135mm is often just short, and 70mm to high to start with, then the Tamron is the solution – I also like to shoot videos, and then a lens with this range is great.
I have two Fujifilm X-H1 cameras, so I normally don’t have this problem, but it happens a lot that I have just one camera with me. Out with the wife, with the grandchildren, the zoo, the park, making videos … you probably experienced a similar circumstance – you didn’t got out specifically to shoot pictures, but there’s just that great view, a beautiful bird far away, or a sunset… that’s when you probably only have one camera with you, but with the wrong lens… The Tamron changes that, just a little bigger than an 18-135, but with a huge range – 450mm in 35mm format, next time you go out without the intention to take specific pictures far or close – put the Tamron 18-300mm on, and you can shoot anything.
Chances are you don’t have an 18-135 or 70-300 – then the Tamron is definitely an alternative.
Is it as good as claimed on commercial websites? On advertising and by sponsored reviewers, a lens is always good – you and I know that. That being said, it’s certainly not a bad lens, quite the contrary. Can she replace two Fujifilm lenses with one lens? Yes, the Tamron can certainly replace 2 or more lenses – if you can also live with the fact that it is less sharp. However, if you are a critical person there may also be other disadvantages for you. Is this the only lens you will ever need? “Ever” hmm, ever is a long time but it’s possible, it’s definitely a great starter lens,
To the questions : would I buy it again if I could turn back time ? – and can I recommend this lens ? – on both questions YES. Keep in mind that it is not cheap, on the other hand, if you buy some Fuji FX lenses in this range you will lose more, but then you do get more quality – so it’s a tough one actually. For whom is it intended ? that can be very different. If you are (sometimes) a one lens one camera guy then this could be the solution, but there is a price to pay, literally and figuratively.
I hope this review was helpful to you and that you can draw the necessary conclusions from it. Marc.
No, not a new recipe, but a link to an overview of all MGA Recipes. In my search for new recipes and reading the accompanying text of new recipes, I noticed that many recipe makers use or base their own recipes on existing recipes of others, and then I notice that some names keep coming back. One of those names is Mark G. Adams. This just goes to show how good Mark’s recipes are. The nice thing is that Mark has posted a document on his website in pdf format that contains all of his great recipes in a neat tabular format with links to the pages of his individual recipes on his blog. You can download it and put it on your smartphone or tablet, so you always have access to a wealth of high-quality recipes.
Mark is a great photographer and has “the eye” for it, not everyone has that. He also has a strong sense of color and harmony, you will find that in his photos, but also in his various Fujifilm Recipes. You can see that Mark is also a great guy in his videos on YouTube. So be sure to visit his website and YouTube channel, you will find it fun and educational – links below.
The concept of a camera to which you can apply a certain recipe is amazing, the original Fujifilm recipes such as Provia, Velvia etc. are certainly one of the reasons why Fujifilm cameras have become so popular. But, even with the many possibilities that the latest Fujifilm cameras have, creating a film effect remains limited – or rather, making an exceptional one is not easy. This one, the “Fujifilm X-H1 Film Simulation Recipe: Kodak GT 800-5” by Ritchie Roesch – Fuji X Weekly, is one of them. With many recipes, the difference between others is sometimes not noticeable, while with “real film” this is often the case. With this recipe you also have that clear “real film” effect, although in this case it is a simulation of possible aging or other causes. Either way, it’s something typical of analog-era photographs or negatives, and it has character and typical colors – vintage is the word that immediately comes to mind. Ritchie has created a great recipe here! I even plan to make a Lut out of it, only I’m not that far yet, something always comes up, and making Luts is not that easy and takes a lot of time – so it will take a while for this.
Fuji X Weekly – Ritchie Roesch – Kodak GT 800-5
Can be used on many Fujifilm cameras, created on X-Trans III
Andrei Dima, a professional photographer from Romania. Not an accidental discovery, I had already noticed Andrei before during a search for beautiful landscapes from Italy. To create Luts that have to contain a certain atmosphere, I sometimes use the color palette of existing photos, in this case I was looking for typical Italian villages on the coast, with houses in earthy colors and the deep blue Mediterranean sea. And then some of Andrei’s pictures popped up on Google search. And now I have also discovered his recipes that I would like to share with everyone here.
I wrote it recently in another article, many recipes are based on existing recipes, and in this case it is just like that. Three recipes, one from Andrei. The other two are from Ritchie Roesch of Fuji Weekly and Mark G. Adams of One Camera One Lens.
Bad Weather Recipes – Andrei Dima, Ritchie Roesch & Mark G. Adams
Fifty years have passed, and here is another OM-1 ! Will it be discussed as much as the original OM-1 ? (which actually was marked M-1 first), I don’t think so, can he be as revolutionary ? possibly.
But why do I want to write about it anyway? Do I have one – no Do I want one – yes, no, yes…ehhm… no, but that’s because I already have too many cameras, and I already own an EM5 Mark II that I realy love. I am and remain a follower and supporter of the Fujifilm camera system, but sometimes I prefer to use my Oly EM5 Mark II 🙂 for photographing birds for example, and also when I want a long reach and little weight – on Bushcraft for example, basically anywhere where weight-range and water resistance is important.
So, for this type of camera we are talking about the adventurous type photographer. Isn’t a Fujifilm photographer adventurous? of course yes, robustness and water resistance is certainly no problem for a Fuji, but carrying a camera with a lens equivalent of 600mm, and weighing 1030grams in total is something else – my EM5 II with Panasonic 100-300mm (200-600) weighs 1030grams, and it can fit in a large coat pocket or a very small handbag.
The strong argument that Olympus has always used is that in combination with the crop factor you can use smaller and lighter lenses, then add image stabilization and make the camera very small and light, and you have a killer combination.
However, this camera is not so light, and also not that compact, in terms of dimensions you can compare it with the Fujifilm X-H1 – just a few millimeters smaller, so not really tiny.
Then, is there still an advantage to using this camera? Well, the specs of this camera are better than the X-T4, not much you say? well, he really stands out here and there: unlimited recording time, live composite, larger viewfinder and higher resolution , higher iso, doubled focus points, faster shooting, build in ND, high resolution shot 80mp – 50mp handheld, animal eye tracking … And the gain in smaller and lighter lenses is still there.
To summarize the advantages of the new OM-1 : its a Fuji X-T4 on steroids.
the crop factor is in any case a plus (long range, small lenses)
120fps continuous shooting (electronic)
8.0 EV Stops of Stabilization Performance
80MP High Res Shot Mode (Tripod) 50MP High Res Shot Mode (Handheld)
an OLED viewfinder of 5.76M dots
These are some impressive specifications !
These are some impressive specifications ! And if you read carefully, really focused on nature photography, and that’s where Olympus shines. That’s also the reason for this writing. Very honest ? If I was still busy with the switch from Pentax camera system at this moment, then this camera, and whether the Olympus system as a whole, would have been worthy of consideration. Today ? As a photographer I am just not involved enough with nature photography, just not enough on (extreme) adventure, however…
In the video below you can find and demonstrated all the most important specifications. But a warning in advance ! After watching the video you will want it ! I already had my visa in my hand 🙂 it’s tempting…
Now, this OM-1 is not a cheap camera, do you still want to take advantage of the advantages that an Olympus camera has, then you can still opt for an older camera, such as the Olympus OM D EM 5 Mark II. When my wife and I stay in our vacation home, I always have my EM 5 with 100-300mm lying around, just for the occasion when something suddenly pops up that you want to photograph. It is never in the way, because it is small. Below I have attached a video that I made in this way with this camera.
Another new magazine, I hope you like it. To start, a new recipe update – what else 🙂 “The Big Negative – “I can’t BELIEVE this is not Film!” Fujifilm Recipe” A very promising title, but is it? And as a bonus, on the same page there is another recipe from the same maker – “The Big Negative – My JEFF BRIDGES B&W Fujifilm Recipe, perfect for Streetphotography” My personal opinion ? The recipes leave room for further experimentation, but out of the box they are already great anyway. I would definitely go check it out!
Cinebloom – Tiffen Black Mist
Don’t you have them either? Those sets with glass filters? Mine are from Cokin, but there are others. Bought for specialized types of analog or digital photography and filming. Such as Infra Red filters and filters for photographing in daylight with Cinestill. But I also have other, color filters, faded filters etc…
Recently I also started to specialize in Video with one of my X-H1 cameras, and also in that branch filters are sometimes interesting, especially when you want to give your footage an “Analog Look”. Cinebloom and Tiffen Black Mist Pro are just a few that come to my mind right now. But all those filters actually cost a lot of money, and do I use them regularly? So no. Coincidentally, on the same channel where I found that last film recipe, I also saw a video about making such a filter yourself, I thought, this could be interesting – not just for me, but for many other photographers. So check out this link : SAVE 100$ With This DIY MIST FILTER, and maybe it will help you to think of other filters too – like the “Black Mist” Filter by Pyry Ruuskanen . Have fun creating your own filter sets !
Panasonic Lumix G Vario 100-300 F4.0-5.6II and Olympus 14-150mm F4.0-5.6 II
To get started with my new Olympus E-M5MarkII I needed a few lenses. Included with the camera was the Olympus 14-42mm F3.5-5.6 EZ, Well this lens is just like the Fujifilm 15-45mm, only more compact – the problem is that I don’t like electronic zooms, but 14mm was a good starting point for a standard lens on an Olympus camera.
Because I’m not quite sure where I want to go with the Olympus camera system – meaning two different systems is not very convenient – I wanted to buy as few lenses as possible, but have a kit that is as complete and compact as possible for both architecture and wildlife. The first lens was the Laowa 10mm Zero D, the ideal lens for architecture. For the “standard” range I chose the Olympus 14-150mm F4.0-5.6 II, and for the “super tele” range I got the Panasonic Lumix G Vario 100-300 F4.0-5.6II This gives a 35mm equivalent of 20mm, 28-300mm and 200-600mm respectively. I was able to buy these last two zooms second hand for about €500 together – try that for the Fujifilm system!
Both lenses are very good – more than adequate for most photographers like me who are not pixel peepers – 🙂 Coincidentally, I was reading an article by Craig Bergonzoni today about “Shooting At ISO 12,800” – what is this have to do with the lens you think ? Well, as he says, I think most of us don’t really want to shoot at such a high ISO – just because it’s too noisy, and (we think) isn’t pretty. But actually photos taken at this high ISO are still quite ok – and, from an analog standpoint, even similar and more than acceptable. We photographers have all become a bit spoiled with progress. Everything should be to fine, no noise, razor blade sharp – just no room for any imperfection. So no the lenses are not 100% sharp. However, these are pocket lenses and ridiculously cheap to get. I think it’s what you’re willing to pay for it, and what you accept as ok.
Below are some results. The pictures are unaltered – only made smaller for web. The enlargements are screen prints with the exif information from the viewer.
A very promising title : “I can’t BELIEVE this is not Film!”, but can he make it happen ? I noticed he was a “real film” shooter, so he already has the experience and knowledge, so lets find out !
“it is one of the most accurately filmic recipes out there” R.W. – YT
Well, judging by the reactions on YT – The Big Negative channel, I’d say yes. The one above is just one of many. The photos look very convincing, and they give a very good impression of what the recipe is capable of.
On the YT page you will find two versions of this recipe, one for X Trans 4 -> the original I think, and also one for X Trans 2 and above. On the YT page I also see that many users have already tested this recipe on many different Fujifilm cameras, X-T2, X-T3, X-70, X-T20, X100V etc…, and the reactions are always positive.
When I find new recipes on the WWW, and publish them for my page “The Largest Collection of Recipes brought together”, then I don’t test all of these myself. There are so many recipes out there, many are very similar, so it only happens once in so many that I’m really interested. This is one of them.
But don’t take my word for it, just test it out for yourself. Below are the links – have fun shooting “film” !
Almost forgot, I’ve added a second recipe from the same creator – a B&W recipe, you can find it below the featured recipe.
The Big Negative – I can’t Believe this is not Film! Fujifilm Recipe
No sharpness tests, pixel counting or other technical mumbo jumbo, just everyday pictures with the intention of showing the view angle, color pattern and character, and my thoughts of the lens.
I have the 7Artisans 35mm f0.95 from the beginning of August 2021, so almost five months now, and this is my opinion about this lens :
When I first got the lens, I thought it was great, a real old school lens ! Good size, looks great and feels very sturdy. All metal and a lot of glass – you can feel it ! On the left side, the focal point is in red painted on the lens (not engraved) A DOF scale – well drawn broadly on top of the lens, furthermore a clickless aperture on the front of the lens – my favorite place for the aperture ring (like the vintage Olympus primes). The focus ring runs smoothly – just enough resistance. The aperture is just the same – smooth. A great lens, but is it ?
Below a Picture BlowUp :
7Artisans 35mm f 0.95 – set at f 0.95
Of course I’m only showing one photo here where I’ve magnified the corners – but it’s good and sharp – even at f0.95. Is she better than the XC 35mm f2.0 – probably not, and the XC is cheaper, but unfortunately made of plastic. Is the XF 35mm f2.0 WR better? – yes, but that one is almost €100 more expensive, but of course then you have an AF lens and Fuji glass.
The 7Artisans 35mm f0.95 is a not so cheap manual lens – the higher price is of course due to the higher light sensitivity. It is sharp enough – even wide open. Being slightly larger than the other 35mm 7Artisans lenses, it is also easier to operate (especially if you have bigger hands).
This bigger format makes it much more in line with the old vintage lenses from before. Just like Nikon, Canon, Pentax and many others made their standard 50mm lenses. The focal length is also in the same line (35mm x1.5 = 52.5mm). Shooting with this lens on your camera takes you back to the analog and manual era, especially when you shoot with a Fujifilm camera with dedicated shutter and iso dials. Perfect for those who want to learn how to shoot manually, or just want that vintage feel. Both in use and feel, and also a bit in the results, this lens breathes Vintage.
However, I have one concern about the lens, and that’s the clickless aperture. While shooting with the lens, I noticed that the aperture twisted quite easily when looking for the focus ring. I read a review about the lens somewhere that described the same problem, and where the writer put a piece of tape at the bottom of the lens with the lens fixed at f0.95. But other than this, I’d say: go for it !
In summary, why should you buy the 7Artisans 35mm f0.95?
Good quality lens – fairly sharp wide open
Very light sensitive due to the f0.95
“real manual lens” not “manual by wire” like the Fujifilm lenses
Very good handling (except the aperture ring, which can shift)
Real Vintage feeling and results
Target price around €300, which is actually a bargain for an f0.95 lens
Below are some more samples – I know, actually I didn’t take that many pictures with it, that’s for several reasons – the weather, the covid, but mainly because I prefer working with wider angles lately.
For those who are interested : During the time this fortress was active, the entrance was not so easy to reach. All the way around the fort there is water, and at the front and the entrance of the fort there was a drawbridge – in the photo below this is the first red boxed area – now a concrete slab is over it. Then you had a flat piece about a meter / a meter a half in stone – I think the thickness of the fort walls. Behind it you had a second drawbridge also above deep water – now that part has a wooden beam floor – it is the rear part marked red in the photo. It made the fortress difficult to access.
Via Google maps you can get a better insight into the size of the entire fortress – the coordinates are 51.34692093539357, 4.42596851785953 or follow this link : https://goo.gl/maps/GrUZd9dgoExn7A8h7
Øyvind Nordhagen. Photographer based in Oslo. I write about photographic technique and editing.
The Daylight Recipe :
Film simulation: Astia Highlight tone: -1 Shadow tone: 0 Dynamic range: 200 White balance: Auto (White Priority if available) White balance shift: R -1, B -2 Color Chrome Effect: Weak Color Chrome FX Blue: Weak Color: 0 Sharpness: -2 Noise reduction: -4 Grain: Off Clarity: 0 Exposure compensation: 0 with spot/center-weighted metering or whatever needed to avoid highlight clipping.
The Recipe for Overcast – Cloudy or Foggy conditions :
Film simulation: Astia Highlight tone: +1 Shadow tone: 0 Dynamic range: 200 White balance: 5500 K White balance shift: R -1, B -2 Color Chrome Effect: Off Color Chrome FX Blue: Off Color: 0 Sharpness: -2 Noise reduction: -4 Grain: Off Clarity: 0 Exposure compensation: 0 with multi metering as a starting point, but adjusting as needed to get a balanced histogram.
The Night time Recipe :
Film simulation: Astia Highlight tone: -1 Shadow tone: 0 Dynamic range: 200 White balance: Incandescent White balance shift: R +2, B +4 Color Chrome Effect: Off Color Chrome FX Blue: Weak Color: -2 Sharpness: -2 Noise reduction: -4 Grain: Off Clarity: 0 Exposure compensation: Around -1
A question from the maker: “As always, please tag me in your Instagram captions or use the hashtags mentioned so I get to keep up with what others are doing with my recipes. I gives me great joy to see them in the wild and get feedback. That’s after all the reason I do the work of making and sharing them.”
Film Simulation : Classic Chrome Grain Effect : Weak Small Color Chrome Effect : Strong Color Chrome FX Blue : Weak White Balance : Auto WB Shift : R+2 B-4 Dynamic Range : Auto Tone Curve : Highlights -1 Shadows -2 Color +2 Sharpness -2 Noise Reduction -4 Clarity 0 Long Exposure NR : On Color Space : SRGB
Fujifilm Simulations on a Olympus ? Yes, it can. Originally these settings where meant for the Olympus OM-D E-M10 Mark II, but you can use this on most Olympus cameras, so dial in and start shooting (tested myself on the OM-D E-M5 Mark II, works great) Remember, as Rob Trek said it – these are starting points.
Well, the reason I switched from Pentax to Fujifilm was mainly for two reasons:
Dedicated Dials like in the old days (shutter speed – iso)
What I missed in Fujifilm and had with Pentax was image stabilization.
Meanwhile, I found image stabilization in the Fujifilm X-H1, of which I now have two. But I also have the much smaller X-T1 that I mainly use for manual lenses and because it is smaller also as a backup/second camera on the road, a great camera the X-T1, but again no image stabilization.
I was super enthusiastic with the Olympus E-M10 Mark I, but the camera had its drawbacks.
not weather sealed
1440k dot evf vs 2360k dot evf in the X-T1
narrower viewfinder : 0.58 vs 0.77
Well, the Olympus OM-D E-M5 Mark II has all this and more :
Weather Sealed Body
5 axis Sensor-shift Image Stabilization
Large 0.74 2360k dot viewfinder
On top of that :
Better manual focus vs X-T1
A faster mechanical shutter – 1/8000 vs 1/4000
Live Composite Mode
Focus Bracketing and Focus Stacking
Pixel Shift High-Res Mode – 40MP
Faster Continuous Shooting 10fps vs 8fps
Selfie & Vlogger Friendly LCD
Crop factor 2 – what is an advantage and disadvantage at the same time *
And all that in a package that weighs just 29g more, but still smaller in size than the Fujifilm X-T1 – Price-wise, you’ll find the E-M5 Mark II second-hand around the same price as the X-T1. The ultimate benefit ? It’s like having an X-H1 and a set of lenses that have been washed too hot – extremely compact and light, but also extremely powerful and sturdy.
What I also love is the LCD screen, great when you can’t reach something, when filming, you can just turn it almost in any direction. And really great : you can close it upside down on the camera ! no more damage to your LCD, and it stays clean because you no longer rub against it with your face (see second picture below)
* The Crop factor advantage/disadvantage. Unlike APS-C cameras, MFT or 4/3 cameras have a crop factor of 2 instead of 1.5 The advantage: Bird and animal photographers can use smaller and lighter lenses and still have a wider range – for example: a 300mm lens on an APS-C camera becomes 450mm, on an MFT or 4/3 camera that same lens is equal to 600mm. The disadvantage: This enlargement can also be a disadvantage at the same time, for example; a 35mm lens on APS-C corresponds to 52.5mm – a standard lens actually. On MFT – 4/3, that same lens becomes a 70mm, which is actually more of a portrait lens. Conclusion: it all depends on the subject you like to photograph.
Conclusion and recommendations :
So the answer to “why an Olympus camera” when you’re already shooting with another brand ? Simple : Image Stabilization and to a greater or lesser extent the crop factor. Fujifilm is really missing an opportunity here, it’s not that there wasn’t room in the X-T1, because it’s bigger than the Olympus. But you won’t find it in the X-T2 or X-T3 either. Many photographers will say they don’t miss it or really need it, I understand that, but once you’ve used it and got used to it, you don’t want anything else.
Shall I switch to Olympus ? No, Fujifilm’s image quality is still better – to a greater or lesser extent due to the larger sensor.
For whom can I recommend this camera:
Bird & Animal photographers
Traveling Light & Backpackers
I myself tick 4 out of 5 categories, which is why this camera is also a good choice for me.
No sharpness tests, pixel counting or other technical mumbo jumbo, just everyday pictures with the intention of showing the view angle, color pattern and character, and my thoughts of the lens.
The Venus Optics Laowa 10mm f2.0 C&D-Dreamer Zero-D for MFT is very tiny and light, and since it’s used on an MFT camera, I think that’s a good thing. I recently wrote a review of the 7Artisans 35mm f0.95, where I liked that the lens was larger, which made it easier to operate – it was, however, it was also used on a larger camera. My new (old) Olympus OM-D E-M5 Mark II is really a very small camera, that compactness was also part of the reason why I bought this camera. It makes it also more logical to use smaller lenses. However, even if you have coal shovels of hands, this is an easy-to-use manual lens.
So focusing with this small lens is super easy, you can hardly miss it. The wide angle makes it also very easy to set hyperfocal distance, so that everything is sharp from near to infinity, very useful for street photography. For this, the lens is equipped with a handy DOF scale.
And sharpness ? well, at f2.0 I think it’s sufficiently sharp, but it’s very sharp from f4 to f8, and I personally would try to use it as much as possible on that settings.
Vignetting and Flare, well, it’s not a €1000 lens, so nitpickers please abstain. Personally, I think it’s not that bad and you barely see it, yes a tiny bit of vignetting, don’t most wide angle lenses have that ? Flare, well I have to be careful here – flare can be beautiful or disturbing – depends on the image and the flare, and sometimes a strange saucer-like spot can show up. So pay close attention in winter with low sun, or with direct frontal light.
Below original on the left, and enlarged screenshots on the right:
The aperture is another, surprising story : there isn’t one. No, this fully manual lens does not have an aperture ring, but the aperture can be controlled on the camera – electronically! Yes, the Laowa 10mm f2.0 is equipped with electronic contacts! Not for AF, but for controlling the aperture and which is also very handy: your camera recognizes your lens, great! No more setting focal information on your camera, just mount and shoot.
As for that angle of view (96°), “they say” a standard lens (35mm in APS-C) roughly corresponds to the angle of view of the human eye. That is more or less correct, although it is actually more about the magnification than the real angle. So, do we really see so limited ? Look really consciously straight ahead, then pay attention to what becomes visible in the left and right corner of your eye – without moving your head. Yes, you can see almost everything over an angle of about 180°, not sharp of course, but visibly more or less. Then if you really pay attention to the area that is actually part of your field of view or angle, I think it’s in the direction of about 90° – a little less likely. The angle of view of this Laowa 10mm (which corresponds to 20mm on APS-C) is 96° and feels much more natural to the human eye in my opinion. That’s also because this is a zero distortion lens, so the horizon stays straight, and you don’t have that weird fisheye effect that other wide angle lenses sometimes have. So, if you’re not sure if the angle of this lens isn’t going to feel too wide, I’m not of that opinion, it actually feels very natural.
Zero Distortion Lens, I just wrote it before, a great advantage ! which makes this lens great for Street photography, Landscapes, Astrophotography or Architectural photography. That is also the target group of this lens and where it comes into its own.
Furthermore, the front of the lens does not turn, and the lens focuses internally, so it does not protrude while setting sharpness.
The lens comes with a good lens hood, which also protects the lens well. Tip : although the lens is well protected by the lens hood, I would opt for a UV or Protection filter, primarily so that the front lens cap can be removed or mounted more easily, without having to remove the lens hood.
All photos above and below are SOOC – no additional sharpening is done, no film simulation or color editing – only resized to 1920×1080 at 70% for web viewing.
First off, I’d like to wish all my readers a Merry Christmas ! maybe not under optimal circumstances for everyone, but we can only make the best of it, and in the end it’s the people closest to us that matter the most. Meanwhile, the clock ticks away the minutes, and a new year approaches. Hopefully a better year for everyone !
To start with, I have selected one Fujifilm recipe for this Christmas Special, a recipe that is close to the Christmas atmosphere, the daily weather and the colors outside in nature. The maker of the recipe is not unknown, and he has made a video about it, in the video you can already find his recipe, but I also wrote it out in my article. The music and how the video is made is just beautiful. But who is it and what is its recipe ? Check It Out Here! Highly Recommended!
One of those novelties where the XF 33mm f1.4 WR and XF 23mm f1.4 WR – that already have been released. I would like to say something about this, although these are very high quality light-sensitive and professional lenses, they are also quite expensive. And while an f1.4 lens has its advantages, for most of us an f2.0 or f2.8 lens will also suffice – the advantages of the latter are weight, size and most importantly price.
A lens for Video and Photo – the XF 18-120mm
I think most people would have seen this coming, nowadays I see more and more people combining photo and video to show their work on Youtube for example. I have also become very interested. And yes, with an 18-120mm you can film and photograph just about the anything. A lot will depend on the price, because I currently use my XF 18-135mm WR lens for this, and that works very well.
The Big Guns
Not much to say about this lens, bigger yes, but this was also to be expected I think.
Well, both expected sometime in 2022 – apparently also the year that the X series will be 10 years old – so maybe they also have other surprises in store at Fujifilm, lets hope they have !
New Flagship Camera – the X-H2
Especially in the GFX series there are many innovations on the way, but also in the X series a new camera is expected – rather: flagship. And it would be not one but two – possibly not at the same time. The camera I’m talking about here is the X-H2 I am excited and very interested in what it will be eventually. According to Fuji Rumors it would be a version with a 26MP and another with a 40MP, and something vague about stacked layer sensor on the Summit ? We’ll have to wait and see.
Enjoy your Christmas and your loved ones,
and I’ll see you all in a new year !
P.S. The pictures of Christmas decorations on the header card and in the article were shot with a Fuji X-H1 and 7Artisans 35mm f0.95 FX. A review will follow early next year, but I can already tell you that it is one hell of a lens! Recipe enthusiasts will not be left on their hunger either, as new found recipes are currently being noted and will be posted as soon as possible. I can also say that I have a new camera in my stable : an Olympus OM D E M5 Mark II, this particular camera has a few features that makes it even better than its successor the Mark III in my opinion, maybe even better than some Fujifilm cameras, and for me it might be the ultimate camera, who knows ? I will definitely start using it with manual lenses. What to do with the Fujifilm X-T1 and my other Fujifilm cameras then ? time will tell. You can expect a “why buy this camera in…”, and my decisions where I will go with Fujifilm and Olympus in the next year, as well as a review of my new Venus Optics Laowa 10mm Zero D MFT lens, in the first issue of OSP Photography 2022 !
For this “Christmas Special” I searched and found one recipe that fits very well with the atmosphere and colors of this period. The name is “Creamy Color” ! Be sure to check out the Youtube video below that Captn Look made, it actually doesn’t really start until 1:10, but it’s really worth seeing all the way through. Captn Look has created a gem here, The music, the film and the pictures … breathtakingly beautifully done. A nice combination of film and photo, something I actually want more for my own photographic experience, I find it pure Art ! I hope you all can enjoy it too. Merry Christmas ! And… Thank you Captn Look for this great recipe !
Links and written recipe below the video – All credits : Captn Look
The music, the film and the pictures … Breathtakingly beautifully done.
Recipe : Creamy Color Classic Negative DR 400 Highlight +4 Shadow +4 Color -4 Sharpening -4 Grain effect Strong Large Clarity -5 Color Chrome effect Strong Color Chrome effect Blue Strong White Balance K8700 Red +4 Blue +6 ISO 640-5000 Noise Reduction -4 Exposure Comp. -1/3 EV