The Original Fuji X100

It was 2010 when I saw the promotional video of the Fujifilm Finepix X100… it was love at first sight !

I had to have this camera, and as soon as I got the chance I signed up to get one of the very first.
The camera cost about €1400 at the time, not cheap for a camera with a fixed lens.
But the X100 breathed nostalgia, and reminded me of the rangefinders from the 35mm film era like the Olympus Trip, Yashica Electro, Canon Canonet and many others.
When I finally got the camera in 2011, and had photographed with it a few times, the prevailing feeling was disappointment.
The camera was not what I expected, it had a confusing menu and was painfully slow.
My main camera then was the Pentax K-20, and the X100 couldn’t compete with that, the Pentax was faster, had interchangeable lenses, etc etc. I was blind for the fact that they where completely different cameras and not comparable, and I forgot the reason why I really bought the X100 in the First place. As a result I couldn’t find any pleasure in shooting with it.

For years the camera was only used sporadically.
This actually changed when I bought a used X-E 1 at one point, purely to use with vintage manual lenses.
I rediscovered the sense of photography, slowing down and taking time for the shot, setting aperture, shutter and focusing, all the manual way, and really having fun again.
The X100 came out of the closet to experiment with it, and for a short time it was used as a “Noir” camera – I also rediscovered the aperture and shutter dial, and then came the click.
Finally I saw the real reason again why I bought the X100, it was the feel of an old 35mm film rangefinder, only it had a sensor and no film.

Now it is no longer in the closet.
It’s not my main camera, but it now occupies a very special place in my photography life.
I’l try to explain :
When I go to an air show, or photograph birds, do macro photography, I will take the right equipment with me, such as long telephoto lenses, or macro rings etc. – bags full of gear.
You will recognize such a person immediately from a mile, a photographer !
Or he just thinks he is 🙂
35mm rangefinders were used by the common man, on vacation, during party’s or weddings, on the beach, in the restaurant, in the zoo…everywhere !
Just having fun and taking pictures, and actually you didn’t notice someone like that, he blended into the event.
Get it ?
And that’s where the camera shines.
It’s the perfect street camera, at party’s and weddings … anywhere you want to capture people in a natural way and shoot unobtrusively. It is also the camera to just throw in your bag and go on the road, without a specific goal in mind, without thinking whether you have the right lens with you.
Just to take a snap when the opportunity arises and just having fun.

And that’s exactly what I have with it now : fun !
So can I recommend it now ?
yes, completely, I think it’s a must have !
maybe also the newer X100 models ?
not shure …
although the simplicity and the original 12 megapixel sensor really contributes to this special feeling, I don’t think any other camera has this.

12 megapixels you say ?
Yes, 12 mp is more than enough,
just don’t count on cropping … much,
and use your feet to “zoom in”.

The X100, the camera where it all started with.

My old X100 with red shutter release button, black thumb-rest, lens hood, totally worn out ever-ready case and paracord wrist strap – at the back of the camera I have a flip-X-bac, it protects the back LCD and ads an angle viewfinder – very handy !



Usually they don’t bode well.
And in this case it is no different I think.
The reason for this post – too few visitors on this site.
The solution, or better, the consequence : fewer posts – possible shutdown.
I don’t now why the new site never really took off ?
but it’s hard to come up with new articles/simulations and reviews if you don’t have an audience.
For the few loyal followers/readers here,
I’m not gone yet.
But for now, there will be no more weekly or rather fixed weekly publications.
How will it continue ?
Time will tell.

Darktable Tutorial : Copying the Look and Feel from One Picture to Another – Part I

The first part is about the technique of copying the Look and Feel from one picture to another in Darktable – In the second part, whe are going to create a Lut (PNG and 3DCube) from that Look and Feel.

How often do you see great pictures on the internet and wish your own pictures would look just like that ?

Well, of course it starts with the location, it will be difficult to give your pictures taken in the garden the same look as those of, for example, bamboo forest of Trey Radcliff in Kyoto.

That’s primarily due to the “exotic” feel of that place, because to someone in Kyoto, something photographed in your garden can look equally amazing, right?
Well yes and no, an exotic place or just a place that you don’t recognize is one step ahead, for the rest it’s just in your head.

The Mist From The Tree Tops Fell On Me From Above And Behind

The Picture Above – Bamboo Forest – All rights and credits to Trey Ratcliff – https://stuckincustoms.smugmug.com/

But of course location is not the only thing that can make a picture look – let’s say “different”.
Photographers like Trey also use HDR, Photoshop and Color Grading.
But not everyone has those skills, or they still need to be improved.
Also finding a Lut that suits your taste is not always easy, because what will your picture look like after applying a certain Lut – and which Lut would do the trick ?
It would be much easier if you see a picture on the internet that you like, and of which you could apply the color pattern to your picture.
That’s what this tutorial is about.

First this:
It’s not because you’re copying the “Look & Feel” of a picture
that your picture will look exactly the same.
That’s only possible if your photo looks almost exactly the same to begin with.
There are many factors that influence the final result, from elements in a picture, the colors, to light etc.
In the example below you will see a boat in the “donor” picture, dark clouds and certain color patterns that are not in my “target” picture, so it will never be exactly the same, but only “Looks Like”.

Ok, lets start with a “donor” picture : it is by Nuno Obey from West Java Indonesia (instagram nunoobey) White Rowboat @ https://www.pexels.com/ – Thank you Nuno !
Yes, you saw this name before in my NEW PictureFX Lut Update – PictureFX Perfect Sunset
This tutorial is also about how that PFX Lut has been made – we’ll get to that in part two.

Above, the donor picture, a sunset and a boat, but for me it’s mainly about the beautiful color pattern.

My picture of a sunset – the target picture – but no boat and no colored clouds

First step : open the “donor” picture in Darktable – make sure no adjustments are active

  • open the “effects group” -> module icons just below the histogram -> the last one on the right -> normally it contains only “color mapping”
  • in “color mapping” set the “numbers of clusters” slider to 5 -> the more clusters, the more dominant color is included, if you choose 1, then only the most dominant color is included.
  • leave color dominance at max. (100) -> to be used in the target picture
  • leave histogram settings at 50% -> to be used in the target picture
  • hit the “acquire as source” button -> the source clusters will fill up with the five most dominant colors
  • before going to the next step – take a good look at the active histogram, you would like that your target picture later has a similar look
  • open the target picture
  • go to “color mapping” -> if the source clusters from before are missing -> click the “reset parameters” button, and they will appear
  • hit the “acquire as target” button – the source colors will merge with the target colors
  • next step is change the “blend mode” – here you need to experiment a bit, a few tips :
    • choose a different blend mode – step by step -> adjust opacity if needed
    • look very close how the histogram reacts -> your aim is a histogram similar as the donor picture

Almost done – just some fine tuning

  • change color dominance slider to taste
  • change histogram equalization to get a similar histogram as donor picture – and to taste
  • if needed adjust exposure

The result, wel, as said before it is never the same, but the result is pleasing and “Looks Like” the donor picture.

Not quite clear yet ?

Below a video about the steps taken, the video is subtitled – click the subtitles icon below.

Below an explanation from the Darktable help file about elements within the color mapping module :

module controls
acquire as source/target
Press these buttons to generate color clusters for the source and target image, respectively. The processing takes a few seconds during which the GUI remains unresponsive.
number of clusters
The number of color clusters to use. If you change this parameter all collected color clusters are reset and need to be acquired anew.
color dominance
This parameter controls the mapping between source and target clusters. At the minimum value mapping is based on color proximity. This typically leads to very subtle effects on the target image. At the maximum value mapping is based on the relative weight of the color clusters – dominant colors of the source image are mapped to dominant colors of the target image. This typically leads to a very strong effect. Intermediate values incrementally shift between these extremes.
histogram equalization
Modify the target image’s contrast by matching its histogram with the histogram of the source image. This slider controls the extent of this effect.

In Partnership With Mark G. Adams

Check out his latest article : Imperfection IS perfection

Open Source Photography is a member of :

A Follow Up on the Tokina SZX f8 400mm and other Big Guns

The last articles have always been about Luts or Recipes, so now it’s high time to talk about gear, more specifically lenses, and even more specifically : the Big Guns !
Long focal length lenses, I usually speak of them as if they were weapons, and that’s because long focal length lenses are usually large and heavy, and can “shoot” things from a long distance.
Some lenses have also been labeled bazookas by others in the past, but the same can’t be said of the tiny Tokina SZX 400.

It wasn’t the first time I experimented with long focal lengths.
In 2015, and still on my old website, I had done a review of my Sigma 150-500mm for Pentax, and the Russian Tair S3 300mm f 4.5 – sometimes referred to as the KGB lens.
The problem I had was basically the same back then -> getting (enough) good shots of birds or other moving subjects at great distance with autofocus. It wasn’t easy, when it really shouldn’t be a problem. With the old Tair S3 300mm, just by manual focus, I had more perfect shots then with the Sigma on auto.
In the beginning I thought the problem was the Sigma, then maybe it was the camera that wasn’t fast enough to focus. Eventually, I saw a few problems that made focusing difficult.

Shooting with many disturbing objects close to the main subject – like photographing a bird through a canopy of leaves, even a few leaves close by could cause problems. Birds or other subjects beyond your focal length range. Actually, everything that is disturbing in the nearby area and everything that is too far for the lens,
and the autofocus gets into trouble.
The solution was: manual focus.

The shots above here where made with the USSR Tair S 300mm f4.5, and are crop screenshots of the originals, saved in low resolution. I can assure you that the originals are much better, they are just here to show that you can still take good pictures with a very old manual telephoto lens. Focusing was done with the large aluminum knob on the bottom of the lens – and it worked surprisingly fast and well, kind of autofocus by brains and muscles. The TAIR 300mm used here costs about €100 to €150 max.

Six years later we are still dealing with the same problem. And I am not the only one, a while ago Omar Gonzalez was testing the Fuji XF 100-400mm and he experienced the same problem.
You would think today’s lenses would be better, but the problems have actually remained the same, interfering objects, light, moving subjects, just to name a few.

It’s not that those lenses are bad, far from it, because the Fuji is great and super sharp. The question is whether you are willing to spend €1500/2000 on a lens that is – heavy and may require manual focus.
I would like to add that if you learn to use the lens better and adjust your camera accordingly, you will also take better pictures in the long run – so you can speak of a learning curve.
For a certain group of photographers – real nature photographers who do almost nothing else than shooting birds or wildlife, it’s a very good choice, but for photographers who do this type of photography sporadically, I would personally go for something lighter, cheaper and manual.

And not only the price is a reason, portability is perhaps the most important reason. A large and heavy lens like the Fuji 100-400mm isn’t a lens you’re going to carry around on all your outings just in case it comes in handy. Something small like a Tokina SZX 400mm that fits in your pocket would be much better – smaller, lighter and cheaper.
But I want to warn you, if you think you will be able to shoot SOOC, forget that. However, if you can adjust your camera’s contrast and color settings, or make a recipe to use with this lens, then you could shoot SOOC, otherwise there is still some work to do afterwards on computer, so RAW, possibly next to Jpg is recommended.
Also recommended and if possible, a filter – on one hand for protection – but also to improve the contrast (a skylight filter for example).
A monopod, especially if you don’t have in-camera stabilization.

Fujifilm X-H1 – Tokina SZX 400mm – Developed in Rawtherapee, exposure corrections – sharpening – denoising – crop 16:9, full width – shot @ 1/2048 f8.0 iso 800
Fujifilm X-H1 – Tokina SZX 400mm – Developed in Rawtherapee, exposure corrections – sharpening – denoising – crop 16:9, about 40% of total image – shot @ 1/128 f8.0 2500 iso
Fujifilm X-H1 – Tokina SZX 400mm – Developed in Rawtherapee, PictureFX Velvia – crop 16:9, almost full width (90%) – shot at 1/1520 f8.0 iso 800

For me the choice is clear, I used to be happy with the results of the old TAIR, but now that I have found a super small and light alternative in the Tokina SZX 400mm, I am very satisfied.

So satisfied that I went one step further – I recently found out that Samyang – besides the existing 300mm – also had a new 500mm f8 mirror lens on the market, I don’t need to say more I guess 🙂
The review of this lens will come as soon as I have the chance to take some long distance pictures somewhere.
Of course I will also compare it with the Tokina.

Then, what I have written here below completely contradicts my writing above, and probably some will call me crazy.
As some already know, I am someone who likes to go to air shows, shooting is usually done statically in one and the same place. Especially for such an occasion I recently made a very modest investment in glass, more specifically old glass.
It is a 40/50 year old, five (5) kilogram, Meyer-Optik Görlitz Orestegor/Pentacon f/5.6 500mm – she is about 450mm long, filter diameter 120mm ! – completely mold and dust free and in perfect working condition, in fact she looks brand new ! – €160 – she reminds me of an old war movie : the Guns of Navarone 🙂
It will be used from a tripod.
I’am very curious whether the lens can deliver better results than the modern mirror lenses.
But that is also for later.

In Partnership With Mark G. Adams

Check out his latest article : Imperfection IS perfection

Open Source Photography is a member of :

New Official Fujifilm Eterna LUT Update – V1.20

Fujifilm just updated its Lut for F-Log Eterna.
Below you will find the link to the official download page.

LUT for F-Log – Fujifilm

In Partnership With Mark G. Adams

Check out his latest article : Imperfection IS perfection

Open Source Photography is a member of :

NEW PictureFX Lut Update – PictureFX Perfect Sunset

Surprise !
Not one but two new PictureFX Updates in One Day!
Yes, you may have noticed while visiting the Fresh Lut’s website that there were also PictureFX Luts.
Well, for the past few weeks I’ve been busy converting existing PictureFX PNG film simulations to a different format HaldClut, which made it possible to create much smaller Lut files – and then much smaller cube files obtained from them.
I have already converted and uploaded the most downloaded film simulations on my own website to the Fresh Lut’s website.
Of course I’m at the very back of the list, but the easiest way to find them is by typing in the search function “Browse Luts” and then on “Name” – PictureFX – the search box is case sensitive, so only in lowercase or other do not give the correct result.

Ok then, our second update for today : the new PictureFX Perfect Sunset LUT was created by combining an existing HaldClut (PNG) – namely my PFX Provia – and Color Mapping of very specific color oriented photos – in this case a photo by Nuno Obey from West Java Indonesia (instagram nunoobey) White Rowboat @ https://www.pexels.com/ – Thank you Nuno !

The technique : I used RawTherapee and Darktable.
Rawtherapee for creating the special HaldClut based on my PFX Provia presets & Darktable for adding the typical Sunset Glow via Color Mapping.
Converted via IWLTBAP to 3DLut .Cube

Format : 3DLut 64x64x64 .Cube – usable in most image editing programs.

Very important :
To obtain the best result it is sometimes necessary to adjust the strength, but also the “Blend Mode”.
Depending on the photo and/or the subject, this can cause very large differences.
Below a few examples, this time one at 70% with the same Blend Mode as one at 100%, and one with a different Blend Mode

Blend Mode : Hardlight 70%

Blend Mode : Pinlight

Blend Mode : Hardlight 100%

As you can see, three completely different results, and for an even more subtle effect, try adjusting the strength in your editor as well.

This film simulation can (currently) only be downloaded via Fresh Luts, and therefore only as 3DLut. De Lut is completely free to download and use in any way you wish.

Would you like the HaldClut version (PNG) ? – send me a message, and I’ll send you a link.

PictureFX Perfect Sunset

Click here to download

Compatible with most editing software, such as Adobe Photoshop (CS6 and +) Adobe After Effects (CS6 and +) Adobe Premiere Pro (CS6 and +) DaVinci Resolve , Affinity Photo and of course Darktable.
The list is too long to list them all here.

In Partnership With Mark G. Adams

Check out his latest article : Imperfection IS perfection

Open Source Photography is a member of :

NEW PictureFX Lut Update – PictureFX Classic Chrome Gold

The new PictureFX Classic Chrome Gold LUT was created by combining an existing HaldClut (PNG) – namely my PFX Classic Chrome – and Color Mapping of very specific color oriented photos – in this case a photo by Lisa from Conwy UK (instagram – Lis welshie.wonders) Golden Textile @ https://www.pexels.com/ – Thank you Lisa !

The technique : I used RawTherapee and Darktable.
Rawtherapee for creating the special HaldClut based on my PFX Classic Chrome presets & Darktable for adding the Golden tone via Color Mapping.
Converted via IWLTBAP to 3DLut .Cube

Format : 3DLut 64x64x64 .Cube – usable in most image editing programs.

Very important :
To obtain the best result it is sometimes necessary to adjust the strength, but also the “Blend Mode”.
Depending on the photo and/or the subject, this can cause very large differences.
Below a few examples, each time at 100% strength but a different Blend Mode.

Blend Mode : Normal

Blend Mode : Lightness

Blend Mode : Overlay

As you can see, three completely different results, and for an even more subtle effect, try adjusting the strength in your editor as well.

This film simulation can (currently) only be downloaded via Fresh Luts, and therefore only as 3DLut. De Lut is completely free to download and use in any way you wish.

Would you like the HaldClut version (PNG) ? – send me a message, and I’ll send you a link.

PictureFX Classic Chrome Gold

Click here to download

Compatible with most editing software, such as Adobe Photoshop (CS6 and +) Adobe After Effects (CS6 and +) Adobe Premiere Pro (CS6 and +) DaVinci Resolve , Affinity Photo and of course Darktable.
The list is too long to list them all here.

In Partnership With Mark G. Adams

Check out his latest article : Imperfection IS perfection

Open Source Photography is a member of :

New Luts Update – Fresh LUT’s

A database of Luts (all .cube format), searchable in various ways via keywords.
The Sites “About” : “freshLUTs is the world’s largest collection of free LUTs. You can browse and download any LUT you like. You can also add LUTs to your favorites and keep track of all the LUTs you downloaded. Filmmakers can upload their LUTs here and share it with the world”
CC0 Creative Commons
Free for commercial use
No attribution required – but it’s so right to do it anyway !

And for the rest of the explanation, I’ll let this gentleman speak below :

Fresh LUT’s

Database of FREE Luts

The World’s Largest Collection
Of Free LUTs

  • Format : Cube
  • Target : Videographers & Photography
  • More ? wait for my next publication…

The Largest Collection of HaldClut/Luts brought together” is Updated

In Partnership With Mark G. Adams

Check out his latest article : Imperfection IS perfection

Open Source Photography is a member of :

New Recipe Update – Øyvind Nordhagen

This Oslo based photographer got in touch after finding “The Largest Collection…” here on OSP.
He has currently published two recipes, but what I immediately noticed is the very well researched and documented description in his recipes, that, and the pictures for illustration proof that a lot of work has gone into this recipes.
I also like the style in his street shots.

Øyvind Nordhagen

“Photographer based in Oslo. I write about photographic technique and editing.”

Modern Documentary Fujifilm Recipe

New American Color Fujifilm Recipe

Site link : oyvindwashere.medium.com

And there’s more…
Øyvind has a very distinct and interesting approach to the “Medium format look on small sensors”
It’s not the first time I’ve come across an article about this, but they all have a different approach.
Usually they work with several images (such as in a panorama) that are then combined, but then the process is not done yet – it is usually quite complicated. That is why his writing got my attention.
For those who are also interested in this type of “Simulation”, click below and discover another way to the “Medium format look on small sensors”

In Partnership With Mark G. Adams

Check out his latest article : Imperfection IS perfection

Olympus Tough TG-6

Suppose you want a camera that you can easily put away,
is waterproof, shock proof, frost resistant, can shoot macro and far away, film in 4K, provides your pictures from exact shooting location, and if possible more…
Not an abnormal question I think, because if you are sportsman, adventurer, nature person and even a family man, you could be searching for such a camera.
I myself am a Bushcrafter, and need a camera that can handle something, sitting in my breast pocket chopping wood, wading through a field of blackberries, working in dirt and sand, wading through a stream…
Which camera could be an option ?

Continue reading “Olympus Tough TG-6”

Ivan Yolo – Ivan Cheam

Three Recipes especially for the Fujifilm X-T4 Camera

Ivan Yolo – Ivan Cheam

Cine Matte

Retro Allure

Urban Chic – Street Fashion

@ the recipe it says “content locked” : if you share, like, subscribe or tweet in the article, the recipe will be visible, you can also wait 240 seconds and it will also be released.

Also check out the MGA Color Chrome+ recipe, and the latest blog with pictures about it @ OneCameraOneLens by Mark G Adams !

In Partnership With Mark G. Adams

Check out his latest article : Imperfection IS perfection

Berchirly Canvas/Leather Messenger 14inch

It’s been about eight months since I wrote about “The Bowery Berchirly” an ONA Camera Bag Alternative

Today I am writing about the bigger brother, although the smaller version can perfectly suffice for a day trip, and can easily hold a camera with 3 lenses – sometimes you just want more volume.
You could say the smaller version is the casual bag, well equipped but not over the top.
This bag is the more professional version : a laptop/tablet – camera with four or more lenses (of the type XF 18-135 / 70-300) – batteries and a lot of other accessories, it’s all possible. The dimensions are 35x27x11cm – 13.7×10.6×4.3inch.
Unlike the smaller version, this one is unpadded (at least not thick).
And that’s okay, a year or more ago I would rather have bags equipped with “Tenba” inserts, but lengthy trial and error has led me to prefer using pouches now.
By using an insert in a bag you lose a lot of volume in your bag – while with pouches you can fill the bag to your heart’s content, it’s just as safe – or safe enough, and there is still room for other personal items.

I have a green version of the bag, I think it’s less conspicuous, and it fits well in nature. In the photos I took of my bag it looks more bluish than green, but that is due to the smartphone I took the photos with, it’s really more of the typical “army green”.

The covid has turned the world upside down for all of us, and I haven’t been able to use the bag intensively in the last two years that I have had the bag. But the moments when it was possible, it was a nice bag to use.
What I personally like about this type of bag is that it is always very accessible – unlike a backpack that you have to take off every time.
I also brought it with me on my trip to see the Orient Express, and while waiting for the train, sitting on a bench with a bottle of water and something to eat that was also in the bag, I noticed how casual the bag was. No one noticed that I was “armed” with a camera and some lenses, just a regular guy waiting for his train to go to work. You can take this bag wherever you go, to the city, or to the zoo, and you can throw everything in it – your wallet, telephone, the newspaper, a bottle of water, sandwiches … and your camera equipment.
It is a very accessible all-round bag.

You can find this type of bag on Amazon and many other stores.
The price I paid for it was : € 41,24 or US $47.43 – £30.38

There are also versions available at a slightly higher price with built-in inserts – removable or not – but as mentioned, the bag gets a lot smaller inside then.

Other bags of this type : Billingham Hadley Pro – National Geographic Africa Midi Satchel – Think Tank – ONA The Brixton, all messenger/cross body type bags,

You may not be a fan of these “cheaper” bags, but consider this:
A while ago I needed a new watch, and I’m the type that goes through 100 reviews or more of something before I buy.
Now, in one of those reviews – a guy who was clearly versed in the world of watches – he talked about this particular model being a fake Rolex Submariner Date, but due to the Seiko mechanics of very good quality.
And he made the following statement: would you walk down the street with a Rolex watch worth about €25,000 every day, work with it, in the water in construction?
No, probably not unless your name is Jeff Bezos, but you would do it with a €150 watch.
Now, a Billingham doesn’t cost €25,000, however, I’d still be careful with a €500 bag, and I would hate it if it got damaged. So, if I can find a bag at one tenth of the price, I’ll take it, if it breaks over the years or I don’t like it anymore, we buy a new one – and in the meantime we have money left over for new lenses or other photo stuff.

Now, although the bag looks cool, it is not 100% waterproof (although they say it is)
There are various products available on the market for this,
but because I like the tough and rough of the bag, and because you can’t visually determine the waterproofness of many technical products (unless you purposely stand in the rain with it), I use an old army trick.
There’s wax, but you can also use candle wax.
I then lay the bag on a flat surface and scrub the bag with a candle so that the canvas gets a white sheen – don’t overdo it, it’s better to work in layers.
Then you take a hairdryer and melt the scraped candle wax into the canvas.
Even on the leather I use it – very little and carefully.
The bag can show stains, but I think that ads to the tough feeling.
You can regularly update your bag with candle wax and ensure a good watertightness.

To be clear, I have no advantage in any way whatsoever by mentioning the above store names or brands. I just recommend this product because I use it myself and I am very satisfied with it.

Thanks for reading !


New Recipe erm.. well, it is the Fujifilm Simulation Recipe Generator

Well, yes, I’m not sure this is a real “Recipe” update for the “Largest List” 🙂
However, it might still generate some useful and surprising new recipes,
but still I think the recipe/quality level will not be on the high side.
Obtained from the Dutch Fuji X forum – thanks Guy’s ! (and Girls)

Fujifilm Simulation Recipe Generator

Click the “New Recipe” button for a new – yes, i think this is obvious 🙂

There is also a button to download the “unique” recipe in PDF format – very handy!

In Partnership With Mark G. Adams

Check out his latest article : Imperfection IS perfection

Tamron 18-300mm f/3.5-6.3 Di III-A VC VX D for Fujifilm X Mount Announced

It’s only been a few days since me and Mark G Adams from OneCameraOneLens.com were talking about an 18-300mm for Fuji X,
and here she is – from Tamron !

TAMRON Announces Development of its First Lens for FUJIFILM X-Mount Tamron 18-300mm f/3.5-6.3 Di III-A VC VX D (coming 2021): BHphoto / AmazonUS

Source: Tamron 18-300mm f/3.5-6.3 Di III-A VC VX D for Fujifilm X Mount Announced

My first 100 posts

Yesterday I published my 100th post.
I started this new blog a little about a year ago,
it was in may 2020.
In the beginning there were not many visitors,
in the first month about 6, to about 15 in August.
Then from September it suddenly went up to 50, and just about three times that number in October, after that there was no stopping.
Last month we had around 1300 visitors from all over the world.
A total of 121 countries visited my website in the last year, of which the top 10 are the United States, Germany, United Kingdom, France, Italy, Belgium, Netherlands, Canada, Spain, Australia.
I owe most of that to my friend Mark G Adams, who did promote my modest blog and still does, and for that I would like to thank him here !
Mark, a very sincere thank you !!!

Mark was (unconsciously) also the reason that I started researching more in the world of Fujifilm, the film simulations (recipes) and the typical Fuji features.
Which rekindled the love for my original X100,
made me buy an X-T1 for manual photography – and I loved it,
which put me on the path of the X-H1 – and I loved it even more,
and through which I put my entire Pentax gear up for sale,
to eventually making the switch to : FUJIFILM

To all readers, followers, subscribers, likers…
For visiting and support : THANKS !

For all new visitors, or for those who do not follow this site yet,
PLEASE : follow, subscribe, like…
and let’s go for another 100 !

In Partnership With Mark G. Adams

Check out his latest article : Imperfection IS perfection

New Recipe Update – E. Fung Photoblog

A late blog update, the article I had in the pipeline for last friday turned out to have a problem, the website – found via the WordPress Reader – suddenly turned out to be “Unsafe”, what exactly happened to it I don’t know, but today we are here with a new Recipe update.

However, first I would like to mention this : Everyone who works with Google Chrome on their computer is probably aware that the browser itself indicates whether a site is safe or not, you know it, the lock or an exclamation mark – but then you are already there – on that site !
If you would like to check whether a website is OK before your visit, simply enter the URL preceded by: http://google.com/safebrowsing/diagnostic?site= in Google search.
You can also just visit Google’s “Safe Browsing” page directly at https://transparencyreport.google.com/safe-browsing/search
and enter the desired link there.
So, hopefully this will help someone.

Back to the Recipe !

Fairly new website/photoblog, could be promissing.
Found three recipes:

  • Metro Style in warm & contrasty tone
  • Brownish, vintage-look recipe using Classic Chrome
  • Fujicolor Natura 1600 – different versions

E. Fung Photoblog

Website : https://my.fujifilmrecipes.com/

Currently three recipes, one on the Fujicolor Natura 1600 – versions for different X trans sensors

Get the latest Recipes and read the latest articles, like his last one about why you better print your photos, one that many of us rather easily overlook, but why we shouldn’t, read more at :

In Partnership With Mark G. Adams

Check out his latest article : Imperfection IS perfection

Reblog from Fuji X Weekly : Fujifilm X-Trans I (X-Pro1 + X-E1) Film Simulation Recipe: Kodachrome II

I had to reblog this article.
It concerns a Recipe, more specifically a Recipe for X-Trans I.
The range of Recipes for Fujifilm cameras is huge, but always more for the newer sensors, and owners of older Fujifilm cameras are usually left out in the cold.
That’s why I’m doing this reblog here, because Ritchie Roesch is already in our list of Recipe makers with his website Fuji X Weekly,
and also Thomas Schwab aka effzwo.thommy, who actually made this recipe.
And the party wasn’t over yet, the next day Ritchie already published another Recipe for X-Trans I on his blog.
So, if you still have an X-E1, X-Pro1 or X-M1, enjoy!

Storm Building Over Mountain Ridge – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-Pro1 – “Kodachrome II” Kodachrome is probably the most iconic photographic film ever made. It was legendary, and many people saw the world through its colors. Kodak produced Kodachrome film from 1935 through 2009, when it was suddenly discontinued. The Kodachrome name has been used […]

Fujifilm X-Trans I (X-Pro1 + X-E1) Film Simulation Recipe: Kodachrome II — FUJI X WEEKLY

If you have another Fujifilm camera – other X-Trans sensor, please visit my “The Largest Collection of Recipes brought together” page, and here you will definitely find something that suits you

Also on the website of my good friend Mark G Adams you can find many Recipes.
But Mark is a documentary photographer, and what always fascinates me are the family outings and group visits he does in the beautiful country of Wales.
So if you’re not a Recipe fan, know that here you’ll find great photos and descriptions of fascinating places in Wales.
Cymru am byth”

In Partnership With Mark G. Adams

Check out his latest article : Imperfection IS perfection

“Unboxing” GrossGrade Professional Color Enhancement & Grading

A “normal unboxing” is a video in which someone receives a package and unpacks it. The unpacker provides a video and the steps he takes with comments and thus gives his very first impression.
Well, I don’t have a package here, but I do have some new software that I found on the internet – for me and probably many of you it’s something new, and it got me really excited, so I wanted to share this :


What is GrossGrade ?
The official explanation on the GrossGrade website :
GrossGrade is a software environment for photo / image color correction or grading. you can choose and use various color correction tools (modules) from the constantly expanding library. In addition, the environment allows you to create your own tools or modify existing for solving a large number of tasks related to analysis, color correction, calibration, as well as non-trivial tasks.

Ok, let’s say you want to make a film simulation in Rawtherapee, Adobe, Darktable … it’s basically the same with all software,
the normal steps are ->

  • load photo in your favorite image program,
  • make adjustments,
  • load a neutral Hald and apply the adjustments to it
  • save as Lut (PNG)
  • optionally convert to Cube format
  • load photo in your favorite image program and apply Lut

Actually a complicated affair + the adjustments that you can make in an image editing program are rather limited.
Can it be otherwise?
Yes, there are paid programs like “3D Lut Creator
But this site wouldn’t be Open Source Photography if there wasn’t an alternative to be found for it, and the alternative is : GrossGrade.
The program is developed for Windows and is still in the Beta phase, but already works like a dream.
And, through Wine it also works on Linux.

So, this software is for Professional Color Enhancing and Grading for Photo and Video.
But aren’t we all professionals?
So, I think we all need this 🙂

Let’s see what Jarvis has to say:

In the example below, a Fujifilm Raw file (Raf) is loaded directly into GrossGrade, in this case, adjustments are made in the Curve module and saved as PNG Lut intended for use in RawTherapee.

More Tools:

Below links to the different pages of the CrossGrade website – click on the pictures :

Click on the picture to go to “SCREENSHOTS”
Click on the picture to go to “HELP and MANUAL”
Click on the picture to go to “DOWNLOADS”

A word of caution,
This software works great on my 10 year old Dell portable,
and I’ve had no trouble getting it running on my Linux installation via Wine. That’s not always the case with software made for Windows. The makers have clearly done a good job thus far.
Especially on Windows, which can be fickle and stubborn by nature, things can always go wrong.
So always make a backup of all your important files (you should always do this before installing new software).
And if possible, invite a handy computer acquaintance or friend who can help you if Murphy decides to stop by.

Recipes cannot be made with the above software, how to do this on your Fujifilm camera can be found here, as well as a large collection of existing recipes and many other interesting articles:

In Partnership With Mark G. Adams

Check out his latest article : Imperfection IS perfection

New Recipe Update – Lea Hartman – Lea & Lens

A new update for the “The Largest Collection of Recipes brought together“.
From a Professional Photographer – Educator.
This time for the X-Trans II sensor – three great recipes :
Analog Astia – Bold B&W – Crispy Chrome – good names to !

Lea Hartman – Lea & Lens

A few Recipes for X-Trans II – a mention of the X-T1 and “old school” , and I was sold.
Myself, and probably many others, still have an X-T1 – or an X100S, X100T, X-E2, X-E2S, X-T10, X70, X20, X30…
The X-T1 is a really great “old school” camera, only there is no film in it.
And someone who makes recipes for it deserves a place in the “largest list…”

And don’t forget, for other great recipes and all Fuji related stuff, pay my good friend Mark G Adams a visit :

The Largest Collection of Recipes brought together.

Selling my Fujifilm Gear !

Don’t worry, i’am keeping the best pieces 🙂

So, the Pentax gear is being sold at the moment, and a new main camera, the Fujifilm X-H1 has taken the place of the Pentax K-3, but that changes a lot for me in how the new equipment is being used.

Going back a bit – I had two Pentax DSLRs, one of which was my main camera, the Fuji X100 had been collecting dust for several years, and I bought another Fuji X camera because I wanted to work more with vintage lenses – specifically Olympus OM Zuiko. The first camera specifically purchased for manual lenses was the Fuji X-E1, a great camera, but soon it became clear that the newer models were even more interesting. Before I knew it, my Fuji collection had grown to seven cameras.

And the eighth ended the Pentax chapter.
Obviously something had to be done here, I can’t keep all cameras – well, I can actually do that, but what’s the point ? So, I had to revise everything and put together a new gear set.

The X100 original remains anyway, there is also the X-T1, this was the first Fuji camera that I really liked – large EVF, weather sealed and no PASM dial but a real shutter and ISO dial. This was the camera that probably initiated the decisions (the purchase of the X-H1) that led to the switch from Pentax to Fujifilm.

What are we looking for then ?
The X100 has became my “compact go to” camera.
Then there is the X-T1 with its 16mp and big EVF, the perfect camera for use with manual lenses – it feels like an analog camera to, size wise and the sensor …
And the X-H1 as my main camera,
but I also want kind of a backup camera for the X-H1,
basically, another 24/26 mp camera.
The X-T20 ? an X-T2, X-T3 or second X-H1 ? That is the question that is currently open. No, not an X-T4, it has a different battery set, and I definitely don’t like and/or want that.

For sale is : the X-E1, X-T10 and maybe the X-T20, and then also the X-A2 and X-A3.

Lenses ? Kind of the same problem – all bought in ever-changing phases. I currently have the following lenses: Fujifilm XC 15-45mm – Fujifilm XC 16-50mm – Fujifilm XC 50-230mm – Fujinon XF 23mm f2.0 WR – Fujinon XF 27mm f2.8 – Fujinon XF 18-135mm WR – Fujinon XF 70- 300mm WR – Fujifilm XF 1.4 TC WR, the last five of which are sure to remain.

The XC 50-230 is becoming a bit redundant, although this is a great, light and super sharp lens. And as a standard lens I have the XC 15-45 and XC 16-50, neither are weather sealed. But unfortunately, the alternative, the kit lens XF 18-55 isn’t either.

What it all comes down to:
I need one new camera, and one standard zoom,
preferably both weather sealed.

I’m curious what I’ll end up with !

Fujifilm X-H1 Recommendations & Accessories

There are many other websites that promote accessories to use with your Fujifilm X-H1,
this list of recommendations and accessories will be different than theirs.
Not everyone will agree with my list, but it’s my take on what’s best.

This list is also not specific to the Fujifilm X-H1 only,
If you buy a second-hand camera, the shutter count can be interesting,
Firmware updates can be important for any Fujifilm Camera,
and so are the updates for the Fujifilm lenses.
And the further recommendations ?
Well, everyone is different, but it might help you.

Fujifilm X-H1 Shutter Count: Online Actuations Checker

Bought a used X-H1?
Want to know how intensively your camera has been used?
Click on the link or picture -> drag or upload one of your latest pictures into the assigned box to find out.

picture credits : https://fujifilm-x.com/global/products/cameras/x-h1/feature-control/

X-H1 Firmware update

Is your camera fully up to date ?
Did you know that you can also update your Fujifilm lens ?
Please read the update procedure before starting!

picture credits : https://fujifilm-x.com/nl-be/support/download/procedure-x-interchangeable-ver2/

Fujifilm VPB-XH1 or any other battery grip

The weight empty should be around 300grs. – that are six (6) battery’s ! The grip kan hold two.

Unless you use a grip for filming, or any other reason where a grip can be useful, You should NOT buy a grip – it only add’s volume and weight !

This also counts for any camera – am I crazy ? I think not, we all want lighter and smaller equipment, and only for more battery power you are going to add 400grs in weight + volume + pay for it ??? – Just put a few extra batteries in your pocket, they barely weigh 50gr each.

picture credits : https://fujifilm-x.com/nl-be/products/accessories/

Fujifilm Eye cup EC-XT L or EC-XH W

Highly recommended – certainly for photographers with glasses – the EC-XH W can also be rotated.

A useful and not expensive accessory. Look at the Fuji Accessory page to find the best fitted for you.

JJC also makes them.

picture credits : https://fujifilm-x.com/nl-be/products/accessories/finder/

Fujifilm Li-ion battery NP-W126S

Highly recommended – You need battery’s to shoot, nothing is worse than falling without power at an event, trip …

I have eight batteries for four cameras, I usually carry two cameras with me, and usually I have four batteries with them – which I can then divide according to whether one camera needs more power.
But it all depends on how long and how much you shoot.
There are also alternatives, more on this later.

Which ? Best is original Fujifilm.

Other : Jupio, Hahnel, Chillipower, Patona, …

credits battery Fujifilm : https://fujifilm-x.com/nl-be/products/accessories/np-w126s/

Battery USB Charger

There is the original Fujifilm Battery charger BC-W126S, but that usually needs power from a wall outlet. Better is to buy an universal charger or USB charger, the one’s that can be powered by an external battery for instance. This way you can charge on the go without being tied to a wire or socket – Many brands and possibilities.

Highly recommended

picture credits : https://www.jupio.com/products/

Solar Panel and/or Power Bank

A must have ?
For me it is.
I regularly go wild camping (at least before corona) for a day or three, and when you don’t have a socket and still want to photograph,
then a solar panel and a power bank is very useful.
But also at events – weddings, everywhere you are present for a long(er) time and need a lot of power, a power bank is very useful.
I have a couple of 14 watt panels and some 10,000 and 15,000 ma power banks.
I use them to charge smartphone, LED (macro photography) lamp and many other accessories, whether or not photographic.

I use Xtorm from Solar Power Supply

picture credits : https://www.solarpowersupply.be/xtorm-solarbooster-14-watt-panel-ap250?sqr=xtorm&

Highly recommended

Arca Swiss type Base or L Plate in Aluminium

Many different models, brands and prices.
All with the same result:
Helps protect against impact (partly)
Quickly and easily put your camera on a tripod/monopod
Sometimes improved grip
Battery access usually no problem
Negligible gain in weight

picture credits to : https://www.3leggedthing.com/eu/l-brackets/universal-l-brackets.html


Water Resistant Soft Neoprene Pouches – Universal Sizes

I’ve tried everything from bags with built-in protection to using Tenba inserts in universal bags.
They are all great, only a pouch has some advantages that the others don’t.

  • a pouch is great for storing your lenses at home
  • they can be put straight out of the closet in a “non” camera bag
  • they have a moisture-protecting property
  • they come in some universal sizes, with a few of them you can fit all your lenses
  • lockable and yet easily accessible

Highly Recommended

bought mine at AliExpressbut available everywhere

Water Resistant Soft Neoprene Camera Pouches – Universal Sizes

There is also one for your camera, just the same as the lenses – light neoprene padding, water resistant and protective.
Quickly accessible and takes up almost no space.

With these types of neoprene pouches you can turn any bag into the perfect camera bag.
Highly Recommended

picture credits and bought mine at https://nl.aliexpress.com/but available everywhere

Berchirly Messenger Shoulder Bag – Waterproof Canvas 14 Inch Notebook

It’s like a school bag, space for pens and pencils, a tablet/laptop, your sandwiches, a canteen and… a camera and a few lenses.

I love my Berchirly, but there are many messenger bags just like it, and either made especially for photo or just an ordinary messenger.
Personally, with what I know and use now, I like anything that is NOT specifically designed for photography the best.

Bought at Berchirly Store

Highly Recommended

And of course a strong but light tripod is indispensable, a remote control (I use a Canon remote 2.5 jack for Fuji X-T1 and X-H1), lens pen – lens cloth and blower, adapter for transfering pictures to phone, …

I’m probably forgetting a few more things here, but the main thing is “think different”.
Not everything the photographic world throws at you suits you.

I am not sponsored by anyone, so it was certainly not my intention to promote a certain brand, if a brand is mentioned then it is purely because I bought it myself, work with it myself, and like it.

Tokina SZX Super Tele 400mm f8 Reflex MF – Review by Jarvis

The Tokina SZX f8.0 400mm, a new mirror lens released by Tokina from august 2020.

Mirror lenses where popular in the 70’s and 80’s – by the 90’s, nobody wanted them anymore.
What has changed ?
The digital camera has come and broken trough, but that has been a while now.
Especially the arrival of mirrorless cameras with improved manual focusing (focus peaking), higher ISO settings, image stabilisation, and a constant demand for lighter and more compact gear, makes it interesting to experiment with this again.
And the lens builders know that, Tokina and Samyang have both started making mirror lenses again.

But they don’t have real success yet, is it the less good memories of the quality of these lenses in the past?
Or are we not ready yet?
Could a lens that is much smaller, much lighter and much cheaper be as good as their heavy and more expensive glass version ?

No – but much better than before.
They are more compact and lighter, and the image quality has improved significantly.
So how good are they really?
Well, below you will find the review made by JARVIS, I didn’t had time, I had to shoot some Pulitzer prize winning …, well you get the picture 🙂
I hope you like it !

Note : The quality of the pictures in de video isn’t that good – so I have included a few below in a gallery – Also, when you look at the exif in the pictures, there will be 300mm as a lens, well that’s my mistake, I forgot to adjust this in the camera.

All unaltered, exept resized for web – In the Gallery : click the “i” and below for full resolution or to enlarge !

Some examples of what only adjusting the curve does for this type of photos – no further adjustments.
Look at the watch, no sharpening has been applied – this picture was shot with the Tokina SZX 400 + Fuji 1.4 TC WR at macro setting.

Credits and other stuff : The Tokina SZX f8 400mm Review by JARVIS This is a non-commercial video, and for non-profit purposes. Credits for the music: Track:https://www.bluetreeaudio.com/corporate-business-background/uplifting-corporate License: https://www.bluetreeaudio.com/license F.A.Q:https://www.bluetreeaudio.com/help Credits for some of the pictures: Johnny Briggs – https://unsplash.com/@johnnyboylee Guy with phone : https://unsplash.com/photos/GxM9gkLJbwY

New Luts Update – SmallHD + Basic steps for Lut Using in Darktable

Hello, here we are again with a new Lut (Cube) update, however !

This time I used a different way of presenting.
Well, in the WordPress editor, there is a way to convert your new article into a podcast of sorts, and I’ve actually been interested in that for a long time.
However, the method offered – through Anchor – didn’t offer me many creative possibilities, and on the creative side I am a little bit different.
I’m also not someone who likes to be in the spotlight, I mean: making a video of myself and doing the explanation directly is a bridge too far for me – also, recording my own voice is something difficult for me – call me shy 🙂
So I started experimenting – everything was done with open source software, online speech, and provided with some free images – and most important : with a lot of imagination.
It’s all very primitive, I’m still a rookie ! but i hope you enjoy it.

P.S. the intro music is probably a little bit loud – beware !

Video format : Click on the square – right side – below – for a Full Screen

About the video content – credits for website, music and pictures :

An update for the largest collection of HaldClut/Luts brought together. Seven free Luts from https://smallhd.com/blogs/community/movie-looks-download. And a short instruction on how to use Luts (cube format) in Darktable. This is a non-commercial video, and for non-profit purposes. Credits for the music: Track:https://www.bluetreeaudio.com/corporate-business-background/uplifting-corporate License: https://www.bluetreeaudio.com/license F.A.Q:https://www.bluetreeaudio.com/help Credits for some of the pictures: Johnny Briggs – https://unsplash.com/@johnnyboylee Guy with phone : https://unsplash.com/photos/GxM9gkLJbwY Read the Full Article on https://marcrphoto.wordpress.com/

SmallHD Movie Looks Simulations Content :

  • Apocalypse This Very Moment
  • BBoyz2
  • Bob Ford
  • Life Giving Tree
  • Moonrise
  • Saving Private Damon
  • The Matrices

I’m always talking about the great recipes Mark creates, but you should definitely check out his “image gallery” and “photo blogs” – man, great pictures you see there!

Luts and Presets Update and Tons of Free Photographers Stuff Like It’s Christmas !

As always scouring the internet for free Presets, Luts or other stuff. This time I came across a website that had Free Presets not only for Lightroom, but also for Photomatix, Aurora HDR, Camera Raw, Luminar, Affinity Photo and ON1.

But that wasn’t all : Photoshop Actions, Overlay’s, PNG Overlay’s, Brushes, Textures and Templates.

Yes, and more : Don’t have a photo model lying around ? and you want to improve your retouching skills -> free RAW model images !

And it just keeps on coming : Styles voor Capture One – Sky Gradient’s – Photographers Logo’s (Can be used in Krita and Gimp also) – LUTS – Video Editing Scripts.

And also : Textures from FixThePhoto for Gimp, and links to the 11 Best Gimp Plugins.

As for the downloads :

Could I have missed something – or is there a catch ? For the most part not, although in some cases there are limitations, sometimes a download consists of one or two presets, while you can buy an extended set – or an overlay has a limited pixel size and you pay for the uncropped version. Anyway, you can find and learn great things here because, they also have tons of video guides. So anyway, this is a website I can recommend to beginners and experts alike.

A little tip: when you want to download something and you click on the download button, you will get a pop up in which you have to/can put your e-mail address to start the download -> this is not always necessary, I I have noticed that in many cases you can just close the pop up with the cross in the top left, without entering your e-mail address, and the download will still start in many cases !

Is FixThePhoto a website with only free stuff ?

No, FixThePhoto is a retouching and editing service, so you could, for example, photograph a wedding yourself and have the photos “fixed” by FixThePhoto at a certain price.
They also sell large sets of actions/presets/luts/brushes…for Photoshop, Lightroom and others, only the single downloads are free.


Photo Editing Freebies

Luts & Presets and Tons of Free Photographers Stuff Like It’s Christmas !

And then there was more :

And more :

Meike Extension Tube Set MK-F-AF3

One of the subjects I like to photograph are flowers, plants, mushrooms etc. but sometimes those things are very small, and the range of your standard lens or zoom is just not close enough. I use my XF 18-135mm a lot and it can actually close focus pretty well, but to be able to photograph the tiniest flowers I would like to have a set of macro extension tubes.

Fujifilm MCEX-11 & MCEX-16 :

Fujifilm has the MCEX-11 Macro Extension Tube which is 11mm, and the MCEX-16 – 16mm, these tubes are sold separately for about €80 per piece – so around €160 for the set.

Meike MK-F-AF3 :

I found a set from Meike, the automatic extension tube set MK-F-AF3 that consists of a 10mm and 16mm tube. I found these new on eBay for €30 – with shipping that came to €35. The average price is around €50 in most camera shops. Barely the cost of one Fuji macro tube.

The Meike Extension Tube Set is made of a combination of metal and plastic (body plastic – metal mount), making the set very light and yet strong. You can use them separately or together. Electrical contacts are provided, so communication with the camera is ensured -> AF, lens data, aperture etc, all are transfered.

Below is a quick test with the XF 18-135mm and Meike MK-F-AF3 on the X-H1, unfortunately there was a lot of wind, and they did not come out 100% sharp, but the intention was only to show what magnification you can get with this macro tubes.

Maybe not much to go on, but the Meike tubes have no internal glass, quality difference or loss compared to the Fujifilm tubes or others, you will not have. Every lens reacts differently to the macro tubes, it is best to do the test yourself with the lenses you have which gives the best results. Prime or zoom, it’s all possible. Personally, I think focal lengths between 50mm and 100mm are best, but again, it all depends on lens – subject – distance etc.

The lens used with these tube(s) should have a greater focal length than tube(s) used, for example : both tubes together on one lens = 10+16 = 26mm -> focal length should be minimal 28mm.

Magnification and Field Coverage in mm for a 50mm lens :

Extension TubeLens Distance SettingMagnification RatioField Coverage (mm)Exposure Factor

Here I have the link to the Fujifilm table with their respective lenses in combination with the Fujifilm macro extension tubes, the shortest tube is only one millimeter longer than the Meike, so you will have a pretty good idea on how a certain Fuji lens performs with a certain macro tube from Meike – Magnification of the Macro Extension Tube

Below are some links to online Macro calculators, useful when you need more precise data with your Meike Extension Tubes and/or lenses.

Links :

The Meike Macro Extension Tube Set MK-F-AF3 in short :


  • Cheap
  • Close fitting without play
  • Good build quality
  • Light
  • One set caps included


  • The coupling between lens/camera and tube is easy, but not as smooth as a Fujifilm lens does directly on the camera.
    Maybe that will improve over time – I don’t know.

Conclusion :

I had the Meike Extension Tube set only for a few days now, but for some things you don’t need much time to see if it’s good or not. If I almost exclusively do macro photography, I would probably opt for the Fujifilm set – or, and more likely, I would buy a special dedicated macro lens. In this case however, macro – and the part where I would really need an extension tube – only makes up a small percentage of my photographic subjects, so for the more sporadic use of macro tubes, I can definitely recommend this Meike set.

Boletus Reticulatus — La Gallerie

Boletus Reticulatus — La Gallerie

I was very surprised today when I came across this one during a walk with one of our dogs.
Apparently they can be found between May and October, but I had never seen them in July. with us they are called “eekhoorntjesbrood”, which freely translated is “squirrel bread”, but a more accurate translation should be “porcini mushrooms”

Shot with X-H1 and XF 18-135mm – only reduced in size, further it is a straight from camera.

New LUT Update – FiLMiC

I think that several (if not all) photographers among us have used a smartphone for making videos and photos, and there is nothing wrong with that, I also do that sometimes. As they say: the best camera is the one you have with you. Even for product shots I dare to use the smartphone, easy and fast. FiLMiC, the site we are talking about here has developed software for your smartphone (Apps for iOS and Android), to get more out of it than the standard available applications, and although the apps are not free, they may still be useful for a few. If you are interested click here.
I haven’t tested the apps, so I can’t say if they’re good or bad, and as always, I am not sponsored by this company either, as far as I’m concerned it’s just about the FREE Luts 🙂


Mobile Cinematography for Mobile Phone.
Apps for iPhone, Android,
Focus Peaking and Film Simulations,
and … Free Luts !

Four luts in Cube format, zipped.

Use : mainly Video (limited usability for pictures – tested in Darktable)

Example of the “FiLMiC_deLog_V2.CUBE” in Darktable, left unaltered, right cube activated – blend mode hardlight @ 85%

Now that I’ve switched completely from Pentax DSLR to Fujifilm, I also use the great features such a camera offers, including Recipes – especially on my new X-H1 !
Vintage Summer” is one of those I love, but there are many more @ https://onecameraonelens.com/ -> Fuji – or click below :

Fujinon XF 70-300mm f4-5.6 R LM OIS WR and Tele Converter XF 1.4x TC WR – First Impression

1) How I came to this purchase (if you want to skip my boring and sleep inducing chatter, please scroll down to nr. 3) :

The story starts with making a very important decision, which is to put my entire Pentax gear up for sale and switch completely to Fujifilm. That decision came after the purchase of the Fujifilm X-H1, the camera that has revived my photographic heart. However, this had consequences for the lenses I needed to continue my photographic interests, since my Pentax lens arsenal was very extensive.

My adventure with Fujifilm had started earlier with the X-E1, because I was looking for a camera that could work well with manual vintage lenses (mainly Olympus OM Zuiko) and had a dedicated shutter dial. Over time I had put together a collection lenses from 21mm to 300mm. The X-E1 had started something in me and soon other Fujifilm cameras joined the ranks, the X-T10, X-T20 and the beautiful X-T1, a camera I quickly fell in love with. As a result, I also invested further in modern manual lenses, including the 7artisans 7.5mm, the Samyang 12mm, 7Artisans 25mm and the Meike 35mm, and because I also wanted to shoot auto focus with my Fujifilm cameras, I also got the XC 15- 45mm, the XC 16-50 and the XC 50-230mm, so a reasonable range – but not water resistant as my X-T1 was.

Were the Japanese Photo Gods already lining me up for a big change ? I don’t know, but by chance I came across a great opportunity : the XF 18-135mm WR, and so I got my first WR lens for my Fujifilm X-T1. This happend shortly before purchasing the X-H1. You can read the story about that here.

2) Which lens for wildlife (mainly birds) and other far-off objects:

And that’s how we arrived here, the XF 18-135mm WR is the perfect water resistant all round lens, in my case suitable for macro, nature, landscape, architecture, street and portrait. What I still was missing was the telephoto range above 135mm and also WR. There were two options for this:

  • Fujinon XF 70-300mm f4-5.6 R LM OIS WR
    • 132,5mm min. (XF18-135 = 98mm)
    • 205,5mm max. (XF18-135 = 158mm)
    • range 830mm – infinity (XF18-135 = 450/600mm – infinity)
    • max. magnification 0.33x (XF18-135 = 0.27x)
    • 580gr (XF18-135 = 490gr)
    • filter diameter 67mm (same as XF 18-135mm)
    • suitable for tele converter XF 1.4x TC WR
    • €799
  • Fujinon XF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 R LM OIS WR
    • 210,5mm min.
    • 270mm max.
    • range 1750mm – infinity
    • max. magnification 0.19x
    • 1375gr.
    • filter diameter 77mm
    • suitable for tele converter XF 1.4x TC WR
    • €1899

I currently have a Sigma 150-500 in my Pentax lens collection, although it is larger and heavier, but together with the specifications above it gave me an idea of what to expect from the XF 100-400 mm compared to the XF 70-300mm in terms of size and weight. However, these are two completely different lenses, you have to realize that for a bird/wildlife photographer every millimetre in focal length counts. A 300mm is sufficient for photographing animals in the zoo, however, in the wild and for example for birds, a 300mm has insufficient range. The combination with a tele converter 1.4x would help (with TC = 420mm), but is it any good ?

The consideration I made was therefore not directly related to the price, because I think that in the longer term I would like the XF 100-400 mm for shooting birds – however, for the dimensions weight and usability the XF 70-300mm is a much better choice to start with. With a diameter of 75mm, 133mm long and 580gr. it can almost be called pocket-size. It can easily be combined with the X-H1 and the XF 18-135mm (dia 76mm x 98mm long and 490gr.) in an average messenger bag. (see photos below). With one camera and these two lenses you have a total range of 27mm to 450mm in 35mm equivalent, add a 1.4 teleconverter to that and that becomes 420mm or 630mm in 35mm equivalent, and that is quite impressive ! So, the decision was easy, I bought the XF 70-300mm. Now I need to figure out if I really need the XF’s 100-400mm fire power, because it’s not only expensive, but big and very heavy !

3) The Fujifilm Fujinon XF 70-300mm f4-5.6 R LM OIS WR and Tele Converter XF 1.4x TC WR First Impression :

The first time I tested this lens was in the garden and at a pond at the edge of a nature reserve where were many dragonflies – I tested the lens without tele converter – my first impression was: jaw dropping ! so small – so light – so fast and … so amazingly sharp! the first pictures downloaded on my computer confirmed that – almost all razor sharp, almost no misses.

The Fujifilm XF 70-300mm in comparison with my XF 18-135mm

The second day was on the same pool but with tele converter 1.4 – my second impression was : Amazing ! the tele converter has almost no influence on size and weight, and … virtually no difference in speed and sharpness ! The pictures again confirmed my impression – even slightly better, now that I had gotten used to the lens and had set the camera slightly differently.

XF 70-300mm mounted on Fujifilm X-H1

For my Pentax camera I had the similar HD Pentax-DA 55-300mm F4-5.8 ED WR https://www.pentaxforums.com/lensreviews/hd-pentax-da-55-300mm-f4-5.8-ed-wr.html – which got good results on the Pentax forums, except on autofocus (6.9/10), I was also reasonable satisfied with the sharpness of the Pentax lens, but the auto focus was very slow and regularly missed. I can’t say that about this Fujinon lens, it is much faster and I would certainly dare to say also sharper. The only complaint is that the lens had problems finding focus very occasionally at maximum tele (300mm) – hard to tell if this was due to the distance – lighting conditions – subject or background contrast ? I will look into that further when i’am using the lens more later. I did not find any other negative points.

Tele converter XF1.4x TC WR
  • small and light
  • switch manual/automatic aperture
  • the lens has a snapping unmarked aperture ring – which is actually as good as a normal aperture ring – especially on the X-H1 because you see the aperture setting on the top display
  • virtually silent auto focus motor
  • fast auto focus
  • switch for normal focus or focus from 5m to infinity – personally I didn’t find this necessary, I just set my camera to pre-focus, and then it was always immediately in focus at any distance
  • sturdy, well-protecting lens hood
  • switch against extending the lens – not used and did not suffer from a sliding lens
  • weather resistant – a big plus !
XF 70-300mm and XF 18-135mm fully extended

Points some people listed as negative :

  • no AF/Manual switch – that’s correct, also, the X-S10 and X-E4 no longer have a switch on the camera, but for the X-H1 and many other Fujifilm cameras , you can just turn it off on the camera.
  • no Stabilizer on/off switch – that’s correct – I can’t really say much about this, would there be a reason to turn it off ?
  • there is no tripod connection – correct – that’s what the OIS is for – and with the X-H1, X-S10 and X-T4 you definitely won’t need a tripod.
Fujifilm X-H1 with XF 70-300mm
XF1.4X TC WR – 58x15mm – 130gr

The teleconverter : first and foremost, this one is pricey ! (about half the cost of the XF 70-300) – but the quality is tremendous, I don’t see loss of sharpness, only little loss of light. It’s dimensions are also so small that you hardly notice it. The focal length is considerably extended, you go from 300mm to a whopping 420mm ! My intention in the coming months is to consider whether the purchase of the much larger and heavier XF 100-400 mm lens is still necessary, or whether the XF 70-300 mm with 1.4x converter is sufficient or acceptable for my needs.

While I was writing this review (which took a while) I came up with alternatives to the expensive and heavy XF 100-400mm, and I found them.
I can already say that at least one new review is coming up about an alternative lens, the brand new Tokina SZX Super Tele 400mm for Fujifilm X, super tiny : 74x77mm @ 355gr. with the same 67mm filter thread as the 18-135mm and 70-300mm (should still fit in the same bag with the rest
An old man with a sleigh and reindeer, who has to earn some extra money at this time of year, is on his way and should arrive in Belgium at the end of next week, yes, reindeer are slow, aren’t they 🙂
So please be patient for delivery, testing and writing !

So you can expect a long-term review of this lens in time. Below are some test shots – I don’t have many pictures here (yet), but the pictures I took were pretty much all in the same place and subject, so 10 or 100 pictures of the same wouldn’t give a better impression. I was very impressed with the lens and the results, especially for a first time, I hope the few photos here reflect that result.

For photographers who’s interest in photographing birds and other wildlife takes a much bigger part than shooting other subjects, I would recommend buying the XF 100-400mm XF 1.4x TC WR Teleconverter Kit, the total cost of this kit is almost the same as the lens only, so you can save yourself a good €350 – so its definitely worth thinking about it! – because you are going to buy the converter, i’am shure !

Product shots of the XF 70-300mm, XF 100-400mm and XF 1.4x TC WR copyright and courtesy of https://www.fujifilm.com/

New Lut Update – Juan Melara

Oh boy, yes, again a great set of Luts in Cube format, my computers disks are exploding of the many luts !
Getting the “largest Collection Luts/Presets and Recipes” together, runs like clockwork.
And I’m very happy for that.
My advice is : create an extra folder for newly downloaded Luts, and keep the ones you really like in a separate Lut folder.
If you’re looking for something special for a particular occasion, you can still browse through that “Lut Download” folder, without cluttering your software menu with the many Luts.

Today we have another Cinematographer/Colourist :

Juan Melara : “Director / Cinematographer / Colourist / Designer, rarely before 10am”

The Luts here are “Print Film Emulation” – PFE – but what is that ? according to Juan Melara from his site : “A print film emulation (PFE) LUT previews how your image will look like when printed onto a target film stock. It accurately emulates the density and color response of the film, to give you an accurate preview on your monitor, prior to going to print.”

Juan Melara

PFE Luts – Format : Cube (Adobe,Darktable,Luminar…) Inside the zip : Fujifilm 3510 – Kodak 2383 – Kodak 2393 – all Print Film Emulations

To get the free luts – scroll down to/ or click here: “show me the luts

Juan Melara Blog

A little bit of info on what’s to come.

  • At the time of starting this article, I was able to find and buy the new FUJINON XF70-300mmF4-5.6 R LM OIS WR, it was very hard to find because after its release date sometime in March 2021 it was sold out everywhere instantly. Anyway, I’ve been able to test it for a few days now and that’s why I would like to give a “first impression” of this lens.
  • I am also writing an article about a conversion program for 3DLut and how you can use it to get started with creating Luts yourself. The converter is programmed in Python and is used via “command line”, so it is more like a “expert level” converter. In principle, it can be used multi-platform, so on Windows, Mac OS or Linux.
  • Also I have a little bit about Darktable in the pipline, about using 3DLuts.

So, the holidays are approaching, and the excursion options due covid are less limited. At the beginning of October I have a Buscraft weekend planned, and during the months of July/August I will probably have more limited access to the internet at times due to the location where I will be spending my holidays.
I will continue to write and post articles, but there may be a little more time in between, I will also do my best to read all my posts and messages, but keep in mind that a day or more may go by.

For Recipes – One Address : One Camera One Lens

Fujifilm X-H1 First Impression 2021

The Fujifilm X-H1 – 24MP X-Trans III
These are my first impressions after buying this camera second-hand mid-June 2021.

When I first got hold of the camera, it immediately felt perfect, a nice big grip, well placed shutter button, and finally a viewfinder that is placed in such a way that you don’t have to stick your face so tight to the camera to see something through it.
It actually feels just like a DSLR but with shutter and Iso dial instead of PASM dial.
Like my Pentax K-3, this camera also has an LCD on top, which is useful in some cases.

Then the very first “power on” and the first press of the shutter – the shutter button is silky smooth, but what immediately stands out is the sound of the mechanical shutter, or should I say almost the lack of it, I almost thought there was something wrong with the camera, this is really the quietest camera I’ve ever had my hands on. This is actually great for taking nature photos, but it can also be very useful for street shooting.

A negative point, I also read this in reviews is the menu, it is not that it is really disturbing but it takes getting used to and searching in the beginning. The first problem is that when you go in and out of the menu you don’t return to the last item consulted, I also find the order and “where is what” not always clear or logical. But, if you use a camera regularly, you get used to it and eventually you know everything where it is. The advantage of this camera is that you hardly use this menu – after it has been set up properly – and because of the many dials and buttons that handle almost all (major) settings.

I’ve written it before, when you read a review you really have to read between the lines. For example, the Fujifilm X-T20 is considered too small in some reviews – it is indeed small, but that suits a target group and can be a plus. The X-H1 on the other hand is too big some say, but for me it feels great in size and weight, I want a camera that I can hold well, and the large grip will help when using larger lenses. So there is always something to cry about, but not always a real problem. Below I will list a few of these annoyances and my view on them:

  • Too big = for those who come from a DSLR, the “big” will be perfect, it is a professional camera, not intended as a pocket camera to take holiday snapshots. The size is also partly determined because you have a rugged and weather sealed camera, an X-T20 is neither of those.
  • Too heavy = the camera weighs 673gr. – the new Pentax K-3 Mark III weighs 820gr, personally I think that if you opt for a rugged weather sealed camera, the weight is not that bad – a Nikon Z6 II weighs 705gr (full frame) and an X-T4 weighs 607gr. Actually, cameras of this quality all have about the same weight, so don’t complain 🙂
  • Low number of shots – or battery life = the camera shoots official 310 pictures with a battery weight of 47g, the Pentax K-3 Mark III gets 800 shots with a 78g battery, and the Fujifilm X-T4 with the new battery NP-W235 gets 500 shots, that battery weighs 91gr – Last Sunday I went to test the camera outside, I made a total of 344 shots in RAW and maximum format Jpeg, and the battery was not completely empty yet . I did turn off the LCD and did not use it, and the IBIS was not on continuous but on recording only. The battery weighs half that of the X-T4 and it’s battery doesn’t go twice as far. It’s all the way you look at it. How many pictures do you take on an event/trip/photo shoot, and do you really shoot continuously until it’s empty, no time for a battery change ? The camera grip you say, but wasn’t the camera too big already ? In addition, an NP-W126S is very small and light, with a few batteries in your pocket you can go very far.
  • No Exposure Compensation dial = yes there isn’t one, do you need it ? Some say that the jpegs of the camera are a bit too dark, ok, the exposure compensation button is right next to the shutter release button – a small press and turn of the wheel and you’re done. Personally, I don’t constantly adjust my exposure when I take pictures, unless under difficult lighting conditions, are you constantly fiddling with exposure compensation ?

There are probably still things that can be annoying for some nitpickers, but for every camera there will always be something to pick on.

My first conclusion after this short time of use:

As written before, I’m a Pentax shooter, I couldn’t really imagine me and any other camera, well, until now that is, this is the first camera that makes me feel even better than with my trusty Pentax K-3 workhorse, it’s also been a long time since I really been stimulated and had even more fun taking pictures. I think this is partly due to the fact that this camera feels and looks like a cross between an analog 35mm film camera and my trusty Pentax K-3, a vintage look with the grip of a digital camera and modern technology.

The camera is from 2018, in comparison only the X-T4 has IBIS and weather sealing (the X-S10 is not weather sealed). Something I’m also really happy with is the viewfinder, it features the same viewfinder as the Fujifilm X-T3 – 3690k dot Electronic viewfinder. Actually, the X-H1 has a bit of the X-T2 (Sensor 24MP), the X-T3 (Viewfinder), the X-T4 (IBIS) and the body of the GFX Series.
All in all, it makes this camera a great tool that I can confidently recommend to anyone looking for a camera that can take a beating, is water resistant and has image stabilization on board, it’s a real Adventure Camera !

By the way, I heard the Fujifilm X-H2 is coming in 2022, so prices are likely to drop even further ! I can only hope that the battery, the NPW126S, is still used for the new X-H2, and not a different battery as for the X-T4. Personally, I find it so easy that you have interchangeable batteries between your X Series cameras, don’t you ? Anyway, if so, then maybe I’ll buy one too… in about two or three years, when it’s cheaper 🙂

Something about lenses : I already had the XF 18-135mm WR, a sturdy lens, reliable, fast and weather-sealed. But for nature photography and other far off subjects the 135mm can be a bit too short, so I was looking for something that gave a bit more range, a 50-200mm wouldn’t be a big upgrade and its not WR, so there were only two alternatives: the xf 100-400mm and the new xf 70-300mm. After much deliberation, the price, the weight, the range and usability, I opted for the XF 70-300mm with tele converter TC 1.4 , a combination that I think is more usable at a lighter weight and price. I’ll probably do a review about the X-H1 again when I’ve been using it for half a year or so, and then also in combination with the 18-135mm and 70-300mm..

Below my first attempt to become a videographer as well, there is still a lot of work to do I think 🙂

Extra’s :

The Fujifilm X-H1

The Fujifilm X-H1 is discontinued, so if you’re interested in this camera, you’ll have to rely on the second-hand market or a dealer who happens to have one left in his store. If you want to know more about the X-H1 click here, or download manual or firmware click here.

Wim Arys

X-H1 Manual with Settings, Tips and Trips

A very comprehensive manual

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